Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,220 total · 14/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The leftmost of 3 cracks. Fun, but fairly unmemorable.


Light rack.
I stayed in the left crack the whole way but stepped out left near the top to a jug. Felt 5.8 done this way. Fun route. Jan 19, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Another Bob Dylan song from the 1966 Blonde on Blonde album. Jan 19, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Vogel and others list this climb as the right crack, not the left. Fun but short. Great flaring crux! Apr 8, 2007
I've climbed both these routes this season. the route names are switched in Vogels new guide?

I found the left crack to be easier than the right.
5.8? maybe, my friend thought they were a tad harder than 5.7 Apr 16, 2007
Lassitude 33
Randy   Lassitude 33
Actually, the guide (Joshua Tree West) lists Rainy Day Women as the left route. Apr 19, 2007
Mark L  
Sadly had to weight the gear on this one from getting pumped at the crux flare near the top - I got myopic wanting to jam something in front of me but didnt realize there was a sidepull off a crimper to the left. Smears or stemming for feet, some jams and locks with face/a jug at the top. Easy shimmy down back and left. I would say the crux was 5.8 and 5.7 for the lower part. Apr 30, 2007
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I just climbed this route Feb. 1st or so. The guide book listed a Class 2 downclimb descending a gully to the climbers right. When I got to the top and went for the downclimb, it had a large 9ft tall boulder blocking the downclimb chute. I assume it fell down from the top recently. It can be climbed by stemming the chute walls and working it like a chimney down the other side but the drop off on the other side of the new boulder is a good 12ft down. So have those chimney skills dialed or your looking at a broken leg. I left a sling girthed around a large rock for a rappel but I'm sure it's part of someones rack by now. Feb 3, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
Also not a very good route, although its nice on colder days since it faces south. The crux is definitely the flaring crack section, which will make you look around for good holds on the face. In general, I would avoid this formation for good routes elsewhere. May 27, 2009
maggie-girl Wenski
Mammoth Lakes, CA
maggie-girl Wenski   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Little exposed on the start-- ground anchor was nice. Fun flaring-hands through the crux with bomber feet the whole way! Face holds keep this climb 5.7. Love the easy decent! Short little scramble over and around without exposure. Mar 6, 2012
Meh. 2 move wonder. Nov 17, 2012
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
So is this the right or the left crack?

I'm talking about the RIGHT crack in this comment.
Good route, in the sun if there is sun, and somewhat interesting climbing on nice features. No big mystery, just plug some cams or med nuts and work your way up. Crux is probably near the top, but no section has anything like a shutdown move. The summit anchors will take almost anything, but stuff in the 2" range seem to work best. Probably belay on top unless you are all fancy and do an extended anchor type thing to set up a slingshot.

To walk off go up and over the back of the formation and scramble down to climbers left. Not hard, not sketch, and will pop you out down near the base of the left hand route. Dec 6, 2012
For the Left crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).
For me the crux move was a combination of tenuous jam, tenuous layback, tenuous feet -- which all taken together were enough to hold the move. So for physical strength perhaps it's no more than 7, but for technical mastery and mental creativity + staying-cool-on-Lead maybe it's 8+

For an experienced crack climber who is accustomed to mixing jamming with other techniques, this route offers some thoughtful variety. For someone looking to exercise their finger and hand jams, well that's just one of the starting points.

The descent is non-difficult class 3. Which also applies to scrambling up to the top to set up a Top-Rope for the route (in case the above comments scared anyone off from leading it). We found it straightforward to set up for Top-Roping off the same anchor both this route and the other one (Maggie's Farm). Jan 29, 2013
Crux portion with flaring crack requires really trusting step up on foot jam with hands essentially for balance only. Have to agree with some of the above comments, staying in the crack feels bit harder than 5.7 Jan 16, 2017