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Routes in Apathetic Rock

Atomic Wedgie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sentimental Apathy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: George Zelenz, March 1993
Page Views: 255 total · 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Grainy friction up the lumpy south face of the formation leads to a bolted anchor at the top. Maybe half a star out of five, but you could do a lot worse than this at Josh.

Protection

4 bolts (w/gold shuts), bolted anchor/rap. All bolts are 3/8"

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
First bolt is back in again.... Jan 8, 2012
Murf
 
Murf  
 
If this is the route I think it is, it is no less than a pile of junk. The rock is horrible quality, someone has etched initials into the rocks about 1/2 up, and one of the anchor bolts ( a modern one, not a split shaft ) moves in the hole. Over all, a suboptimal experience. Oct 10, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.7 R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7 R
This route appears to have originally started from the very bottom via the chopped bolt, but the logical entrance to the route is atop a boulder or two leaning against the rock on the right. Stepping off of this and making a couple of moves gains the first bolt (original second). Either start however, provides enough exposure to give this an Rish rating for some. And, although well protected after this point, the bolts holding the shuts should probably be replaced. Although the bolts are screwed in tight enough, the sleeve that they are in seemed loose especially on one of the anchor bolts. Oct 10, 2006