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Routes in Chicken Boulder

Full Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I, Chicken T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,114 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Protection

A single set of cams to as big as you have. The bigger the pro you take, the sooner you get gear, though it may require a runner. At least a 3.5"-4" Friend is a good idea.

Description

On the side of the Chicken Boulder facing the parking lot and the cathedral Towers, you will see a crack on the lower end. This starts as a deep and wide flare that pinches down from wide (stemming) to fingers over its length.
The cruxes come when stepping out into the jams, as your feet disappear (physical crux) and then higher as the jams become flaring thin hands with crumbling feet (delicate crux).
My [partner] and I cleaned the route up a little, and it will probably further improve with traffic. However, at present it is not a great climb.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10+
This climb is not great, but it is easy to get to and is challenging. I placed cams from a #6 to a #1 Camalot. I thought it was harder than 10c, but maybe I am just out of practice. You don't need nuts to protect the climb but could use one as part of an anchor. Nov 14, 2015
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Anyone climbed the other side of this analogous crack?
I onsighted it this afternoon just barely. Felt fairly tough, maybe 5.10. I'm not sure it warrants a pg rating but I could be wrong. Short and sweet for sure. Oct 4, 2009