Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,128 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


A single set of cams to as big as you have. The bigger the pro you take, the sooner you get gear, though it may require a runner. At least a 3.5"-4" Friend is a good idea.


On the side of the Chicken Boulder facing the parking lot and the cathedral Towers, you will see a crack on the lower end. This starts as a deep and wide flare that pinches down from wide (stemming) to fingers over its length.
The cruxes come when stepping out into the jams, as your feet disappear (physical crux) and then higher as the jams become flaring thin hands with crumbling feet (delicate crux).
My [partner] and I cleaned the route up a little, and it will probably further improve with traffic. However, at present it is not a great climb.


Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Anyone climbed the other side of this analogous crack?
I onsighted it this afternoon just barely. Felt fairly tough, maybe 5.10. I'm not sure it warrants a pg rating but I could be wrong. Short and sweet for sure. Oct 4, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This climb is not great, but it is easy to get to and is challenging. I placed cams from a #6 to a #1 Camalot. I thought it was harder than 10c, but maybe I am just out of practice. You don't need nuts to protect the climb but could use one as part of an anchor. Nov 14, 2015