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Euclid's Corner

5.10+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Roger Briggs, Steve Nelson, 1971 FFA: Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Skunk Canyon > Ridge 3 aka Angel's Way
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Description

This pitch is just South (downhill) from the middle gap in the upper part of Ridge Three (Angel's Way), on its SW face. This gap is immediately West of the top of Ridge Two (Satan's Slab). It is the giant, obvious left-facing corner that is slabby at the start, vertical in the middle, and very overhanging at the top. You actually don't climb the slabby part of the corner as it looks really hard and unprotected. Instead climb an easy crack, through the slab to the corner's left, to gain a ledge that can easily be traversed to the corner proper. Now climb the corner with awesome stemming and then some easier, but thuggish, wideness through the roof section. The topout is very cool. I would call this pitch three stars if it weren't for a loosish flake in the middle section of the corner. We also found it to be quite hard for the grade. Intended as our warm-up, it turned into a bit of a project. 115'.

A short, easy downclimb off the back takes you to a forested ramp that leads back to the base.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs and a couple big pieces (up to #4 Camalot).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nate A working out the stems. 1-8-06.
[Hide Photo] Nate A working out the stems. 1-8-06.
This is one colorful freakin' pitch.....
[Hide Photo] This is one colorful freakin' pitch.....
Euclid's Corner from the Mohling Arête.
[Hide Photo] Euclid's Corner from the Mohling Arête.
Max Manson on the overhanging finish.
[Hide Photo] Max Manson on the overhanging finish.
Max Manson at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Max Manson at the crux.
Max Manson starting up the business.
[Hide Photo] Max Manson starting up the business.
Chris Parks uses technique #3 (arm-bar with headjam) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks uses technique #3 (arm-bar with headjam) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
Chris Parks Uses technique #2 (heel-toe) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks Uses technique #2 (heel-toe) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
Chris Parks Uses technique #1 (arm bar with cling) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks Uses technique #1 (arm bar with cling) in the overhanging crack on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/06.
Chris Parks sizes up the crack in the overhang above him on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks sizes up the crack in the overhang above him on "Euclid's Corner" (5.10c, PG-13) on Ridge 3 of Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons.
Euclid's Corner climbs the thin left-facing dihedral to the wide, right-leaning roof pictured in this shot. The crux is 2/3 up the thin corner. Photo by T. Bubb, 09/06.
[Hide Photo] Euclid's Corner climbs the thin left-facing dihedral to the wide, right-leaning roof pictured in this shot. The crux is 2/3 up the thin corner. Photo by T. Bubb, 09/06.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] The 5.10b/c given to this route in Rossiter's book looks like a Y.D.S. rating but is not. In fact, is it a Dan Hare euphemism for "I dunno, but it is really awkward." Anyone climbing any of his 5.10b/c routes on Hawk Eagle Ridge in Eldo should be familiar with this particular sub-grade. While the route is not greatly challenging, you might find it awkward.

Of note, this is NOT a good route to push limits, mental or physical on, for the first or second. The initial 20' is not protected and while not hard is NOT a give-me (5.8, X) and the upper part is protected frequently, but mostly on very small nuts (from brass up to #5 BD stopper + 2" cam in a horizontal I cleaned out). My second fell after the crux and swung out quite a way and could not get back into the corner. He elected to reattain the main system via a tree-choked crack out to the right.

The roof up top is a little thuggish, but far easier than the thin dihedral and does not require wide gear. I was perfectly happy with a single set of Camalots to #3 and a set of stoppers + RPs. Oct 1, 2006
Bill Wright
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] Just did this today and found it very challenging. I was sure glad I wasn't leading it. I fell a number of times just before the crack opens up enough to accept a larger cam (0.5). It seemed harder than the first pitch of the Naked Edge to me and way more heady because of the tiny gear, but I've done the Edge many times, so maybe not a fair comparison. Super cool route, but very technical and challenging to gear. The top part is easier but overhanging and awkward. Sep 5, 2020