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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, '84
Page Views: 3,605 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

According to Bob's book, this route was one of the first in the canyon.

It starts in an overhanging dihedral just left of the beautiful lichen-covered wall that hosts "Sitting in Limbo" and "Cassandra".

The crux comes at the beginning and involves powerful stemming up the overhanging corner to reach a gigantic pocket. The route above climbes up a pleasant lichen-covered slab.

This route was originally climbed on gear, which was very bold, considering the nature of the rock. It has been retrobolted...by whom, I don't know...and now should be a popular route. The climbing is excellent, and the rock is very good too.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

NEH
 
NEH  
 
One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. Highly recommended! Dec 11, 2010
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
 
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
 
A great route that seems to rarely see traffic. I didn't do much stemming and instead opted for crimpy lieback. The slab above is very enjoyable with a balancy redpoint crux coming right before the top shelf. May 15, 2012
William Mondragon  
  5.11d
Onsighted! Yes! I brushed all the holds on my way down. Hop on this route and help with the cleaning process, def worth doing. Sep 10, 2012
rojasx53
  5.11c
rojasx53  
  5.11c
Unlike most routes in this canyon, this route felt soft. Nonetheless, it was a blast! May 27, 2017
Allen L
Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Allen L   Del Norte, CO
  5.11c
Killer route - unfortunately maybe only one in canyon that I want a clipper stick on. Jun 4, 2018
Angela Lee
South Fork, CO
  5.11b/c
Angela Lee   South Fork, CO
  5.11b/c
Amazing movement, great jams up top, totally classic route! The quick link-up at the anchors is extremely rusty and needs replaced - would love to help organize another anchor replacement day to tighten some loose bolts and replace some of the rust!

The rope whipped me straight across the chest upon pulling, crazy horizontal whip action - wonder if the route name has anything to do with that? Jul 21, 2018

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