Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Paul Piana, Barbara Devine, Kevin Bein, 1982|
|Page Views:||2,710 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||nolteboy on Sep 16, 2005|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionThis route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical, blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantel follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor.
Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.