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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon

Analog V8-9 7B+
Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Digital V6 7A
Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Moonrise Variation (Moontide?) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Piana, Barbara Devine, Kevin Bein, 1982
Page Views: 2,743 total · 18/month
Shared By: nolteboy on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical, blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantel follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor.

Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.

Location

If facing Straight and Narrow, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.

Protection

Mostly nuts (all sizes) and smallish cams, and bring a couple of hand-sized pieces.

Descent

Per Jeff G.: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

Photos

Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11b
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11b
There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

edited to add: I didn't place the bolts. I don't know who did, I'm just reporting the facts. Jun 29, 2007
JNE
JNE  
I agree John. If I remember correctly, there was a good gear anchor and an casual walkoff which deposits you nearly at the base of the climb. As a result, I think the bolts on this are not necessary. Nov 10, 2007
Tyler Thompson
Laramie, WY
Tyler Thompson   Laramie, WY
Climbers who are familiar with Lumpy Ridge liebacking may find this a bit soft for the grade. This is a great place to take your sport climber friends who are sick of bleeding on every route. Sep 5, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c
When I climbed this route in 1983, it didn't have fixed copperheads. I remember repeating it in the late 1980s, & the heads had been placed. It was most unfortunate. The climb was originally protected with good RPs for the bottom tips lieback & marginal RPs for the finish. The finish wasn't that dangerous, because there are good medium stopper placements at your feet when you are doing the upper crux. I remember placing a #2 steel nut (RP) & a keyholed #5? overhead. I took a short fall & one piece pulled & the other held.

I repeated it several times. It is a fun climb on perfect stone. The upper crux has insecure face moves to reach a sloping shelf. Finish with an exciting mantel.

It would have been better to place bolts rather than fixed copperheads. At least the bolts could have been ignored. The heads block the nut placements & would scar the seam if removed, thus damaging the gear slots. The fixed gear may drop the grade, too. I think this climb was originally rated 5.11+.

It is nice to here that there is a bolt anchor at the top of the climb. That is a nice addition.
Jun 30, 2017

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