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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,126 total, 8/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a great way to torch your feet at the end of the day on Helen's Dome.

Climb "Beam Me Up Scotty" and clip some runners into the anchors for a double rope toprope. If you wish to lead it, there is really good gear. But it is WAY up there, and then it is a LONG way to the anchor.

Start 10 feet left of "Fool's Gold". There is a nice water groove with a vertical [dike] of sorts (kind of like a granite tufa) just to the left of the groove. Climb straight up the series of [dikes] using many techniques. the climbing is steep, sustained, and spectacular. The final [dike] peters out at a minor headwall crux. Keep going straight up to the anchors.

There is a little bit of lichen, but it isn't the really desperate kind. This is an absolute foot cramper.

Protection

Top rope, or if you want your family to see how weak your life insurance is, give it a go on the sharp end.

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