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Routes in Myth Rock

Excalibur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mithril T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mjolnir S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Myth of Freedom S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thor S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 09/05
Page Views: 1,042 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 20, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Details: The sword in the stone. You have to use your imagination. Something cleved that beautiful dihedral and the strange split pyramid at its base. This route ascends the very steep dihedral in the crag above the parking shoulder across from Avalon. The wall faces southeast and gets nice morning sunlight. You could literally belay from your car (if you wanted to).

P1: Begin from the road directly beneath the big open book of the second pitch. Climb past 2 bolts and belay from a 2-bolt anchor on a sloping ledge (5.11b).

An easier start begins well to the right of the dihedral. Climb stepped rock past two bolts, then traverse left along a sloping ledge to a 2-bolt belay anchor near the bottom of the dihedral (5.6).

P2: Climb the slightly overhanging dihedral past 6 bolts and lower off from a 2-bolt ring anchor at the top. You can lower all the way to the road and still have plenty of rope to belay and lower your partner. Total height from the road is 80 feet.

Protection

Pitch 1: 2 bolts only to a 2-bolt anchor with lap links.

Pitch 2: 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. You can lower all the way to road.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11b
This is my favorite route at this crag. The crux, down low, takes a lot of strength. Up high there is another hard move, maybe 10d, in the dihedral. We did it in one pitch, skipping the anchor on the ledge. Apr 24, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The ambiance turns this otherwise decent route into a not-so-great route. Then again, we discovered that you can belay from your car's passenger seat through the rolled-down window and escape some of the noise at the base. Wear a helmet and seatbelt to keep from getting bashed if the leader falls. May 21, 2007