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Y-Crack
5.10c/d,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 4 from 22
votes
FA: Henry Barber
Colorado
> Telluride/Norwo…
> Ophir
> Ophir Wall
> Main Wall
Description
This classic route starts on a ledge (Tennis Shoe Traverse) about 150 feet off the deck, about 200 feet to the right of the large, left-facing dihedral. Consult the guidebook for an approach pitch.
This 5-star crack to hard to miss from the road. This is a must do route if you are in the area for a few days. It starts out in a flared jagged wide crack with hand jams inside (5.10a). This leads to a good rest at the intersection of the upper two cracks. The left part of the Y-crack is easier and thinner, but more awkward. The right crack is a splitter fist crack. Get your #3 [Camalots] ready, and follow this beautiful crack for 25 feet to a good rest. Cupped hand jams can be found deep in the crack, dive in and enjoy.
There is 2 bolt belay at 100 feet. You can lower or rap with a 60m.
Protection
A few medium hexes, 1 set of cams to #3.5 [Camalot], doubles from #0.75-2, and about 4 #3 [Camalots].
Went to Bluegrass festival. Was fourth or fifth year, I think--low key and casual. Audience of a thousand, two tops. From what I hear it's different now.... Feb 20, 2008
Santa Monica, Ca.
I'm also sure that they found a way to continue up from where the 2 bolt anchor is until they found a ledge system that allowed them to traverse right and come down the low 5th class gully.
It was a very warm summer day and they cooked on that wall, they said there were swarms of hummingbirds around their gear slings. Jul 2, 2010
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
We approached via Honey Pot dihedral originally rated 5.8; however, it felt more like 9+ near the top of the pitch, and it had a very "Ophir" feel if you know what I'm sayin' :)
You can get off the route with a 70m rope. From the base of the Y, traverse climber's left about 100 ft or so. You will see a chained rappel station on a large block that is semi-detached from the main face. Make a short rappel (40') down to 2 black rappel bolts. Then one more rappel will get you to the ground. Bring 2 ropes if you do not have a 70m.
Get on this route! Jun 20, 2011
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Probably a bit soft for a 10+ if'n, like everyone says, you've got big mitts. Taped manpaws and size 11 feets will fill that fat crack nice enough to make it cruiser. (Though I was still only too happy to have and to place two #4 Camalots.... For that matter, I'm thinkin' the crux actually comes RIGHT off the ground, first sequence of moves.)
Y-crack left is reputed to be a bit softer, but my fat hands are gonna say it's the other way 'round. Found left a lil' more technical/balance-y and more than a lil' strenuous. Less obvious feet. (Again, this speaks more to hand size than anything else.)
Either way, these lines--allowing for their tragic lack of length--rival any 10 in the Creek. Certainly either crack is of the finest in the state. Bring yer guns and bring a photographer.
Oh-yeah. And as of this writing, bats are nesting deep in the upper crack. Bat phobes and The Joker beware. Jul 30, 2012
Santa Monica, Ca.
So, did ya "bring a photographer"? More pics would be good. Aug 1, 2012
Telluride