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No Direction Home

5.11a/b, Sport, 95 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 83 votes
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Ron Olsen
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Witches' Tower
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Protection

Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing the roof.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the roof.
In the middle before the crux.
[Hide Photo] In the middle before the crux.
No Direction Home.  Climb a steep thin crack and a small roof (crux) to a stance below a big roof.  Move left and turn the big roof on good holds.  Climb easier rock to the anchor.
[Hide Photo] No Direction Home. Climb a steep thin crack and a small roof (crux) to a stance below a big roof. Move left and turn the big roof on good holds. Climb easier rock to the anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Quite good from the ground through the roof. Jul 28, 2006
desbien
seattle,wa
[Hide Comment] Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section. Jul 30, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than 11- unless you completely miss something.
It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too. Jun 24, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Tony B sums it up perfectly.

I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains. Jul 18, 2010
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
[Hide Comment] I agree, really fun. An optimistic attitude will be rewarded. Might be a little height dependent.
There's a lowering anchor one more bolt past the crux roof, which I unwittingly used, so can't comment on the upper part.

Went back today (9/15/17) and did the upper section. It's worth doing once. You wouldn't miss much if you skipped it. Jun 14, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] It is possible to walk off to the west from the top of this route. As of now, it's quite steep, brushy ,and loose. That said, it's probably just as easy to rap...carefully. Jul 11, 2011
slim

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] It would have been better to easily clip the bolt at the roof from the stance below it, instead of clipping it off of the steep greasy sidepull (I didn't find the hidden jug until afterwards). Felt like an 11c clip with 5.10 climbing. Jun 14, 2012