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Routes in Long Draw area

Dark Matter T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Great White Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Local's Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Rosy Arete/Tourist Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Rich Strang & Rob Schmidt
Page Views: 4,248 total · 26/month
Shared By: Randy Slavin on Sep 7, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


The Great White Wall is a bit ledgy, loose and spicy, but it has some really cool pitches. It is also a cool alternative when 1. things are kinda hot; 2. There are mobs on Chasm View, and 3. You're running out of "friendly" 5.10 routes to do. It's quite a bit more spicy and loose than Scenic Cruise, etc. but really, it's not too bad, and an excellent intro to this kind of adventuring. The route is on the steep wall up-gully from the Tourist Route and the infamous Tuffnell-McGee, & starts off an obvious pedestal on the left side (looking down) of Long Draw Gully a few hundred feet above the river. Strangely enough, the guidebook's topo is sort of accurate for a change. Scope it from the Balanced Rock Overlook, where the route looks like a chossy, discontinuous nightmare. Don't be fooled. It's fun as hell.

Begin the route by bouldering up 20' or so (don't fall) to a right-angling bush-groove and cruise to a grassy ledge at the base of the first 'real' pitch, a black right-facing corner.

Cruise up the nice handcrack corner to where it ends, and a lone black bolt winks at you 5-10' up and right. Punch it up sorta spicy but secure edges to the bolt, and then crank 5.10 moves up into a mellow groove. Cool pitch. With a little simul-climbing you can link up to the next grassy ledge.

Then fire up a long, steep right-facing 5.10 corner to a ledge. Cruise up and left to a nasty, shattered groove (careful) that leads to nice 5.9 face, and still more low-angled troughs to another big grassy ledge with an ominous stone bivy ring suggesting primeval epics.

The guidebook says it is 7 pitches to here, but we did it in 3 with a 60m & simulclimbing.

Now for the business. Crank a sexy hand & finger crack off the ledge to where it peters out, and figure out the spicy 5.10 peg knobs and edges into the safety of another groove and a weirdly-placed bolted belay. Awesome climbing.

From the bolts, wander up and left on hard-to-read 5.9+ face edges, aiming for a prominent weakness with some nice 5.10 finger cracks that leads up into the gaping maw of some black wide cracks. Belay on a sheltered ledge when the rope stops you.

Fire up and through airy, cool 5.9 wideness with edges on nice black rock to a peg ledge. Cruise up a 5.8 crack right of a steep corner and then traverse hard left across ledges and edges.

Gain the final huge (250'), right-facing corner and climb surprisingly good 5.7 to the rim.

This route is cool, more people should do it. The guidebook says 13 pitches, but we did it in 8 and real climbers could do it in 6-7. We did some crucial and effective (not to mention deeply gratifying) trundling that might help with the choss-factor. Enjoy!


Standard Black Canyon rack up to #4 Camalot.
Crux pitch is pretty hard for 10, and a little runout too. Sep 24, 2005
Jesse Bernier
Jesse Bernier   Boulder
This was a very enjoyable and exciting route. It took us a minute to locate the start of the route as well as the boulder problem to reach it, but once we did it was fairly easy route finding. It took us 8 pitches with a 70m rope. Almost every pitch was a rope stretcher. The crux of the route appeared to be the 5.10 overhanging peg band on our 4th pitch. I wouldn't necessarily call it runout, but you definitely have to climb above your pieces a bit on hard 5.10. The route is still a little loose. I ended up pulling off two handholds on two separate leads, so test as necessary. I recommend the route for anyone who wants a moderate adventure in the Black. May 4, 2007
While the guidebook topo may be accurate, the picture next to it has the line drawn in the wrong place. This route does not go up the corner system as shown in the picture. It stays on the face out to the right.

The corner system goes at 5.9 with plenty of loose rock. Jun 1, 2008
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
The beta above is pretty accurate, as is the topo in the guide. There is a large cairn at the base, so no drama in finding the start (it is also directly across from the Balanced Rock Overlook. Relatively straight-forward route finding and comfortable belays. Hard 5.10 crux with lots of moderate climbing. Still some looseness but not too bad. Shade until 1-2pm (late April). Took 8 pitches - linked 2 & 3, 4 & 5, 6 & 7, 12 & 13. Brought (2) green Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) black - blue Alien, (1) #4 Camalot, (1) set stoppers. I would probably bring the same again.

Also, I was given a topo that shows the "Direct Finish" as a variation going at 5.10+ R. The corner goes at 5.7. Apr 26, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
We did the direct finish last year. It's 5.10+ and R. I can't really recommend it.

josh May 6, 2012
Jordan Moore
Berthoud, CO
Jordan Moore   Berthoud, CO
Not too much loose rock, well-protected 5.10 sections, this route is fantastic! Jul 16, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.10+ PG13
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.10+ PG13
Fantastic route! Do again route for sure. Bit spicier then scenic but is all there. Good rock too. Oct 20, 2015
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
This climb rocks. Dec 9, 2015
Just did this climb, a BC classic. Some really good pitches and no awful ones. The crux is a bit spicy and seemed harder than the 10d on the Scenic Cruise or the 11a on Midsummer's Night Dreams. The second pitch is also a little spicy. All in all, an excellent adventure. Jul 13, 2016

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