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Routes in Mental Rock

Manic Depressive T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleeper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Mark Wilford and Skip Guerin, 1979
Page Views: 1,080 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Sep 5, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This excellent line follows a thin finger crack up to and over the roof. Once arriving at the roof, things get much more involved with powerful underclings and lunges to sloper holds, and finally a lunge to a good hand jam.

For even more fun, try the thin crack just right of the regular start which leads to the same roof crux, but involves more 5.11 and 12- moves before getting to the roof. This variation is very sustained and better than the regular start. Whichever way you start, there is a surprisingly large amount of hard climbing in such a short stretch of rock.

Protection

Nuts and small cams, plus a hand sized piece for after the crux.

Photos

Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11d
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11d
So, after the first roof, I went left through the next roof, does anybody else go this way? or is the hand crack to the right where most people go? Oct 4, 2006