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Dragon Fly

5.9, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 24 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Third Tier > Wall of the Dragon
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a beautiful route on the upper NW Face of the Third Tier of Avalon. This is the Wall of The Dragon and is around to the right from the ?second pitch of Ancient Light?, though it cannot be accessed from Ancient Light.

Follow approach directions given in Wall of the Dragon.

The route begins just up and right from the start of Dragon Slayer. Work straight up via remarakable jugs to clip the first bolt. Continue up and slightly right, et cetera. Stay in line with the bolts and decline any inclination to seek easier terrain out to the right. It isn't easier anyway.

Protection

Five bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jules catching some exposure high up on the pitch!
[Hide Photo] Jules catching some exposure high up on the pitch!
Natasha leads 5.9.
[Hide Photo] Natasha leads 5.9.
At the 4th bolt.
[Hide Photo] At the 4th bolt.
Silly Woody on the juggy start of Dragon Fly.
[Hide Photo] Silly Woody on the juggy start of Dragon Fly.
Nickie Kelly showing good back-stepping form while unclipping the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Nickie Kelly showing good back-stepping form while unclipping the first bolt.
Dragon Fly.  Jug haul past the first bolt, up a groove past the second bolt, and up a steep face to the top.
[Hide Photo] Dragon Fly. Jug haul past the first bolt, up a groove past the second bolt, and up a steep face to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard Rossiter
Boulder, CO
5.9
[Hide Comment] ...Beautiful rock with immaculate pro in a spectacular setting is a pretty good route. The worst that can be said is that the route is too short. Sep 11, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A good pitch; worth the devious approach. We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp then scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed.

A steep jug haul past the first bolt and some delicate face moves up higher. As Richard says, stay in line with the bolts; the climbing is fun and doable. Sep 15, 2005
[Hide Comment] Good climb. We climbed Mystery Tour first, which puts you right at the base of this climb. Definitely worth doing if you are on Mystery Tour (or any of the other climbs in that area). Sep 23, 2012