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Routes in Squat Rock

Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elusive Wapiti T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flamingo Road T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Higher Education S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sex Favor TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: TR, 110 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: Hill on Jan 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed (private property) Details

Description

This is a slabby route just left Elusuve Wapiti [and Jelly Omelet]. Start by either climbing a creaky and crumbly flake or traverse in from the right to the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt with a balancing move. Follow a couple more bolts up some 5.9ish ground and then run it way out on easy ground to the big ledge which has an anchor you can not see from below. It seemed to me that this route was easier than Jelly Omelet because it is not nearly as sustained and has a bolt in the couple spots you'd really want one. This shares the anchor with Elusive Wapiti [and Jelly Omelet], providing some great TR options.

Eds. There is a 2nd pitch shared with Jelly Omelet and Elusive Wapiti that is runout 5.7.

Protection

4-5 quickdraws and something to extend the anchor over the edge if planning to TR.

Photos

After grading this route here, I read the comments. This is Miss Conception, and NOT Sex Favor. It's towards the road from Elusive Wapiti and starts off of a big flake? May 18, 2011
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.8
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.8
No doubt - clip the Elusive Wapiti bolt or else face a 40+ foot runout. I actually downclimbed (downsmeared - yikes) to clip that bolt. Although the upper part of Sex Favor is easy, I wouldn't take it for granted. It's slick granite w/ good edges, but breaking (or crushing) one of those edges is a possibility. The lower section below the ledge felt consistent with other 5.8s in the area. The upper part is probably 5.6 in spots, but mostly easier (when staying left of the shoulder that separates this route from Elusive Wapiti). 1.5 stars. Nov 30, 2005
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Comments by Chad are right on. Just look for the shiny new hangers. Make sure you click the last bolt on Elusive Wapiti to protect the upper run out. Good climb and worth doing. 5.8. Jun 29, 2003
TBD
  5.7
TBD  
  5.7
This route is the first bolted line (with modern hardware) starting from the left side of the crag. Fun and worthwhile route, shares 1 bolt and the anchor with Elusive Wapati. Jun 3, 2003
Hill
 
Hill  
 
I think you guys are right. I was confused by the Hubble topo. I started where the topo indicates Jelly Omlet should start, on the ramp directly below the first bolt of Sex Favor and not off the ground where the topo indicates. I thought this felt to easy to be 5.10c, my bad.

I requested that these 2 route be deleted from the data base so they can be re-submitted correctly. Hopefully this will happen. Sorry for contributing a fuck up! Mar 3, 2003
richard berk
Denver, CO
  5.8+
richard berk   Denver, CO
  5.8+
I agree with Derek, this description is off by one route. Sex Favor is great route with well placed bolts. I feel the crux (1 or 2 moves) is 5.8 if you step right and 5.9 if you stay left. I feel it deserves 2 stars. Feb 21, 2003
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Hill, based on your description for this and Jelly Omlet, I think you were off by 1 route. This decription sounds like Miss Conception 5.9+ (never done - just stared at that rusty bolt!). I've done what I considered to be the route Sex Favors and the description matches yours for Jelly Omlet. There are 5 good bolts thru what I've always felt was tough for 5.8 (call it 5.9). I'd give the route 2 stars based on my assumptions. Feb 20, 2003
Sounds sweet!!! I can't wait to follow this next time you do it. Jan 31, 2003