Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Daniel Woods?
Page Views: 3,483 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steve Woods on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Park at Little Eiger. Below the road is a couple of large boulders. Truly Scrumptious is riverside on the right boulder as you face the road.

Protection

This was done without a pad, but one would be nice.
Sincere thanks for the beta, [Steve], but just a little background: This [Riverside] mini area was first developed by [Marcelo Montalva] and the late, great [Ryan Sayers]. To the right of the main boulder [with 'animal' spray painted on its low roof] is a really short roof-to-grovelfest that's called the [Disembowler]...originally graded seven, but maybe a bit flacid. [Marcelo] put up the roof problem that ascends just left of the '[Animal Tagging', but starting sitting on a cheater block for feet to nab the first roof hold, then pulling on from there to climb the roof and finish in proper style. He had designs to sort it out as a pure roof line, but hasn't been back in years.

Right of the [Animal Tagging] is a line/project that does a few fierce moves to gain the lip of the small roof and top out the really tall face.

I haven't been back up to investigate which is dw's line, but I suspect that it was the 'pure' version of [Marcelo's] left roof problem.

keep sending em--justin j. Sep 12, 2005
Steve Woods
  V10
Steve Woods  
  V10
AC, your suspicion is correct... DW's line is the same as Celos (left of Animal Tagging) but without a "cheater block" start. He said he did three or four hard moves before reaching the lip. --cheers Sep 12, 2005
Luke Childers
  V11
Luke Childers  
  V11
Hello all. I gave this one a run this afternoon but was unsure of the starting holds? It seemed like the logical start would be in the crack/gash in the back of the roof then placing one's feet on the wall and pushing past the crimps to the lip and over? It seemed contrived to sit with your but on the blocks and then move to the crack/gash but I'm not sure? Any one have info on this line for the correct starting holds.

Fun line... wish all the spray paint was not all over the walls. Aug 7, 2009
Luke Childers
  V11
Luke Childers  
  V11
Sent this beast!! Got the move figured. No need for input that I was asking for earlier. Thanks. Aug 10, 2009
For what it's worth... a video. Note that DW's beta was different when he climbed on it due to a meddling block that was in the landing at that time. This block was removed in '07 by an unknown, which admittedly made for much better climbing.

vimeo.com/4945138 Nov 23, 2009
tcamillieri
Denver
  V9
tcamillieri   Denver
  V9
No way this is even V10. Dec 19, 2009