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Routes in Project X Wall

Lothar S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project X S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Radiation Control Area S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rest in Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skunk Budtress S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stemasaurus S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Rob Hanson,1988 bolted & led - Mike Lane
Page Views: 545 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the second easiest route on Project X wall behind Lothar, but it is not an easy "10" romp. Hanson lists this as 9+ in his guidebook, but the last move to the anchors is at least 10b and with the pump factor, it's a difficult onsight (unless you're warming up for the other routes here ;-). The other 12b routes must have sandbagged this "warmup."

RIP is the farthest left line on the W-facing wall at X-Wall. Start from the ground below a huge cave-like pocket or atop a large boulder. The first bolt is out of reach starting on the boulder anyway. Move up past some pumpy pockets, cobbles, and crimps with one 10a crux moving past the second bolt. Then cruise up to the overhang, undercling the huge incut roof, clip the last bolt (which is only about 18 inches from the anchors but necessary) and make some thin and strenuous moves to pull the roof straight up or right of the bolts. (The arete 4 feet to the left is off-route.)

My brother and I always have a favorite saying about routes like this at the Wood. If the route seems more difficult than the printed rating, "a cobble must have pulled out since the FA" making the route AT LEAST 3 letter grades harder. ;-b

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-cold shuts.

Photos

- No Photos -
F.A. of R.I.P. on toprope 1987 R Hanson. Bolted and led 1989? T Hanson, Tod Anderson, Mike Lane, Richard Wright, Eric Leonard, or some combination of this crew. Sep 24, 2001
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
5.9+
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
5.9+
Another one of my top five. Not so easy rest past the first bolt. Save your energy, but don't rest to long at the roof. The last moves are a bit pumpy. Dec 7, 2001
After you make the last clip, you can move to a great hold a few feet over to the left. This allows you to move your feet much higher and makes the finish more of a 5.9 ordeal. The crux seems to be below the final roof. If you aren't very tall, crimping straight up the finish may be slightly more difficult. Feb 18, 2002
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Did this route recently and I agree that the final couple of moves are harder than the 9 rating. Not too bad but harder than a 9. Or maybe it was because I couldn't feel my fingers cause it was snowing. Feb 24, 2003
Brother Numsie
Nepal
 
Brother Numsie   Nepal
 
I was the one who bolted this thing and did the first lead, after it had been toproped 100 times by everyone. But .10B? Jan 22, 2009
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
5.9+
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
5.9+
When I lived in CO, I used to do this route about 6 times a year. Hard 9, but not 10b. That was back in the '90s... maybe the route has changed a bit. Jul 14, 2017

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