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Routes in Project X Wall
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Anticlimacticrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lothar S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nuclear Blue S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Project X S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Radiation Control Area S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rest in Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Skunk Budtress S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stemasaurus S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Rob Hanson,1988 bolted & led - Mike Lane |
| Page Views: | 1,364 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on May 21, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is the second easiest route on Project X wall behind Lothar, but it is not an easy "10" romp. Hanson lists this as 9+ in his guidebook, but the last move to the anchors is at least 10b and with the pump factor, it's a difficult onsight (unless you're warming up for the other routes here ;-). The other 12b routes must have sandbagged this "warmup."
RIP is the farthest left line on the W-facing wall at X-Wall. Start from the ground below a huge cave-like pocket or atop a large boulder. The first bolt is out of reach starting on the boulder anyway. Move up past some pumpy pockets, cobbles, and crimps with one 10a crux moving past the second bolt. Then cruise up to the overhang, undercling the huge incut roof, clip the last bolt (which is only about 18 inches from the anchors but necessary) and make some thin and strenuous moves to pull the roof straight up or right of the bolts. (The arete 4 feet to the left is off-route.)
My brother and I always have a favorite saying about routes like this at the Wood. If the route seems more difficult than the printed rating, "a cobble must have pulled out since the FA" making the route AT LEAST 3 letter grades harder. ;-b
RIP is the farthest left line on the W-facing wall at X-Wall. Start from the ground below a huge cave-like pocket or atop a large boulder. The first bolt is out of reach starting on the boulder anyway. Move up past some pumpy pockets, cobbles, and crimps with one 10a crux moving past the second bolt. Then cruise up to the overhang, undercling the huge incut roof, clip the last bolt (which is only about 18 inches from the anchors but necessary) and make some thin and strenuous moves to pull the roof straight up or right of the bolts. (The arete 4 feet to the left is off-route.)
My brother and I always have a favorite saying about routes like this at the Wood. If the route seems more difficult than the printed rating, "a cobble must have pulled out since the FA" making the route AT LEAST 3 letter grades harder. ;-b
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