Type: Sport
FA: Rob Hanson,1988 bolted & led - Mike Lane
Page Views: 634 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the second easiest route on Project X wall behind Lothar, but it is not an easy "10" romp. Hanson lists this as 9+ in his guidebook, but the last move to the anchors is at least 10b and with the pump factor, it's a difficult onsight (unless you're warming up for the other routes here ;-). The other 12b routes must have sandbagged this "warmup."

RIP is the farthest left line on the W-facing wall at X-Wall. Start from the ground below a huge cave-like pocket or atop a large boulder. The first bolt is out of reach starting on the boulder anyway. Move up past some pumpy pockets, cobbles, and crimps with one 10a crux moving past the second bolt. Then cruise up to the overhang, undercling the huge incut roof, clip the last bolt (which is only about 18 inches from the anchors but necessary) and make some thin and strenuous moves to pull the roof straight up or right of the bolts. (The arete 4 feet to the left is off-route.)

My brother and I always have a favorite saying about routes like this at the Wood. If the route seems more difficult than the printed rating, "a cobble must have pulled out since the FA" making the route AT LEAST 3 letter grades harder. ;-b

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-cold shuts.

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