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Routes in The Head Wall

Any Head Is Good Head S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classic Head S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head for Backstage Pass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: [c1996 Tod Andrson & Tom Hanson]
Page Views: 51 total, 0/month
Shared By: Lyle Monzyk on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Good stemming moves lead to a ledge. Upon gaining access to the ledge, there is a nice 15-20 foot runout to the next bolt. Bring your 'nads or some gear to protect the run. Afterwards, outstanding face climbing on fun edges occurs. You may stop at the first set or continue on to the top of Head Wall. If you continue on, bring more draws and tie a knot in your rope.

The book says its 100 feet to the top, but my 60m was at its ends at the first set.

Location

This is the route to the immediate right of Classic Head.

Protection

11-12 draws, plus two bolt anchors, and possible 1-1.5 inch cam.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
This definitely felt like the hardest route on the wall. The opening section is harder than it looks. It sort of draws you into weird body positions. The slab is ... harder than it looks also, particularly getting started on it. Makes a good warmup for the area. Sep 24, 2013
...[named] after a Jeff Beck tune.... The other two routes on this wall: Any Head is Good Head & Classic Head were also established at that time by the same co-conspirators. Oct 4, 2001