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Routes in Jagged Mountain

Normal Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,587 total · 37/month
Shared By: Jared Brown on Aug 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The route starts just to the right of the large snow filled gully. We went straight up some wet rock ledges that ended at a 20 foot corner ~5.5. The easier way we found on the way down is to cut left up toward the gully on an angling ramp (4th class ramp described in guide books?) that was somewhat wet grimy but pretty easy, and even had mountain goat tracks on it. From here, it's easy grass up to below the upper cliffs, traverse right behind a small detached block, across the top of a gully (we went down this on the descent) and continue up grass and rock ledges at the base of the summit cliffs. Eventually, you hit the short rock step below the notch. There was a longer (30-40 feet) crack in a corner, and around the corner farther, a 20 foot section with a couple groove type features (5.2 section). We went up this, I didn't really notice any decent gear, but it is short, with a big, but sloping ledge below, and there was a slung block to anchor to. From here, go up to the notch, and start traversing back left on exposed ledges. There's one spot where you step around a corner with a straight drop directly below, this was the only place besides the rock step we used the rope. Right after this, there's an easy chimney back up left, then easy scrambling with one tricky move to the summit. On the way down, we found an 8 foot slot at the top of the final chimney to go down to avoid the exposed step around, and made a short rap down the 5.2 rock step. There's also two bolts on the summit to rap off the north side with two ropes.


We used a 50 foot 7 mm cord, a few slings, and one medium-sized nut.
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Admittedly at risk of sandbagging someone with this, but anyway...

If you're wondering whether you should bring a rope and climbing gear, climbing shoes, etc., IMO if you climb 5.6 confidently, you ought to be okay without all that stuff. The cruxes are short (~20' at most) and IMO are reasonable to solo, up and down, for most dedicated, in shape, "rock climbers", assuming it's dry. For a comparison, I would qualify the technical portions of Jagged as more akin to climbs like Blanca-Little Bear or the Crestone Traverses, rather than something a step harder like Long's/Cables or Wham Ridge or one of the Flatirons. (It probably would be helpful to compare to Wilson-El Diente, but I haven't climbed those thus far.)

We found the approach (Vallecitos->Sunlight Creek) significantly burlier and more time-consuming than expected; I'd advise try to avoid carrying extra gear (like 2 ropes!) unless you're pretty sure you'll need it. Jul 17, 2016
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
Did the car-to-car solo from Vallecito TH. Fun and long day...just about 18hrs. Jun 7, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
I recall Mike Vanderbeek reminiscing at an Outward Bound resupply about how he had to go around or downclimb parts of this traverse, or miss some summits altogether. At least I think it was him. Him or Marcus Brown. Whoever it was, they did not ascend the spire on the east end. I've gone from the Noname/Jagged pass along the ridge to the summit. As far as the whole thing, including the spire, I have not heard. Apr 6, 2011
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
Anyone hear of a complete traverse of the summits on this peak? Apr 6, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
scotthsu   Los Alamos, NM
Trip report from our climb of July 2, 2006. Oct 10, 2008
According to Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" (a must have book for all Colorado mountaineers) the first ascent was in August of 1933 and was a team of San Juan Mountaineers including Carelton Long, H.L. McClintok, Mel Griffiths, Dwight Lavender and Lewis Giesecke. The present day ascent route was actually a descent pioneered by William House and Elizabeth Woolsey in 1934. Sep 11, 2005

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