TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2 from 2
FA: TR'd by many-Led by few
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> Lumpy Ridge
> Twin Owls
Season raptor closures
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
This is the right side start to W. Owl Direct. It is referred to in the guidebook as a TR, but I know of several people who have red-pointed it, and even a recent onsight lead. It is a bit spicy, but not unreasonable.
The start is unprotected and bouldery, and I would recommend anchoring the belayer as to not lose the climber and belayer down off the Roosting Ramp in the event of a fall from the starting moves. The flake/block at the start of the crack is loose and you should not place gear behind it or pull on it too aggressively. There are several great stopper placement and shallow cam placements on the climb. The crux takes an OK .5 Camalot, but an equivalent sized offset cam would be ideal.
The climbing is flared and sustained. The crux is a bit gymnastic and probably more difficult for shorter folks. This would be a proud start to Silly Puddy.
Stoppers and cams to .5 Camalot. Doubles in the finger sizes. An offset cam equivalent to a .5/.75 Camalot would be nice.