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Thunderbolts From Hell

5.12 PG13, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: G. Ringsby, S. Dieckhoff
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part A - Ve…
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Description

This route is a good climb, but heady. It lies on the 'Morning Thunder' wall, and, in fact, climbs the first few feet of the namesake climb before breaking left to a bolted arete. Endurance crimping and stable footwork are the keys to making this climb go.

Start up Morning Thunder and place a few good stoppers with a long sling (a litte strenuous), climb left to reach the arete and soon thereafter clip a bolt. Continue past a few more bolts and some tough moves on some flexi-flakes to reach the top of the arete. Keep moving, because endurance is a factor and the holds are small. Top out and build a belay.

This is a pretty stout route- and a few of the little flakes you will yard on are flexing and dubous at best. Be mindful that a fall from the wrong place could result in smashing your face into the rock. So think in terms of doing solid 5.12 while a little pumped and also with a bad fall pending. I talked with Steve about the bolt placements at some length, during which discussion he mentioned injuries on a failed lead attempt, and also conceeded that the 12a grade might be a sandbag, but also stated that was GR's rating, not his. I'm not strong enough at that level to make clear distinctions, but it was quite hard and certainly in the 5.12 range.

Protection

A few small nuts for the opening moves of Morning Thunder, then widely spaced bolts for the steep arete to the left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting into the thin of it on 'Thunderbolts From Heck (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting into the thin of it on 'Thunderbolts From Heck (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.
Tony Bubb geting started on the thin and gymanstic 'Thunderbolts From Hell (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb geting started on the thin and gymanstic 'Thunderbolts From Hell (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gray Ringsby
Haiku, HI
[Hide Comment] The description says I broke some teeth on this route. That is false, although I did take a couple falls before redpointing this on the first ascent. I thought it to be in the 12a/b range. -Gray Ringsby Jul 4, 2023
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Sorry Gray, that was a yarn spun by Steve, and I fell for it. Jul 4, 2023
Gray Ringsby
Haiku, HI
[Hide Comment] That sounds like a Steve move! He had a mischievous sense of humor! Jul 4, 2023