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Warlock

5.10 R, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: T. Bubb & L. Miller, 7/28/2005
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Third Tier > Wall of the Goddess
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Description

Locate the Wall Of The Goddess and walk beyond all of the previously established lines to the far end where a shallow gully can be seen just before rounding the corner. Backtrack a few meters.

You will see a few shallow flares (side-pulls) going up and left to an undercling flake (.5" cam) and then up and left to the next face via some interesting wraps and clings (crux). Gain the next face and climb a newly excavated finger and hand crack up to the end, past some horizontals and diagonals and to the summit of the Godess Wall.

In a pagan sense, Warlock meens something different than the generally known definition of a male witch.

"Woerloga"

Protection

A standard light rack- be sure to include a .5" Alien or TCU for the crux.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wall of the Goddess.
[Hide Photo] Wall of the Goddess.
The upper part of Warlock is highlighted in this image. The lower part is at the bottom of this image- but was too 'close' to photograph the whole route, it follows the shallow seams just left of Yoni and near the edge of the main face that Yoni is on, just to the right of a shallow, short, and left-facing "corner." You step up off of that into this section where the break in the yellow line is drawn.
[Hide Photo] The upper part of Warlock is highlighted in this image. The lower part is at the bottom of this image- but was too 'close' to photograph the whole route, it follows the shallow seams just left of Y…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] crescentmagazine.com/rites/… "A very common misconception is that a warlock is a male Witch. This could not be further from the truth. Warlock means "oath breaker," and can be applied to either sex. A Warlock is someone who betrays the trust of a coven."

The climb was so named because of the ribbing I was getting lately from some of my climbing partners for sport climbing so much since I busted up my ankle. This was the first trad FA I did after getting "back on my feet" after a little over a month. Aug 1, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Tony - could Warlock be the same as the route Shakti?

Rossiter describes Shakti as a "difficult face and shallow crack at the left side of the Wall of the Goddess" on boulderclimbs.com/climbing/…

Rossiter rates Shakti 5.12, but he has over-rated other climbs on the Wall of the Goddess.

If Warlock is an independent line, where is it in relation to Shakti? Aug 18, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I highly doubt that it is the same because the switching faces move and the runout were so pronounced as to be hard not to mention in a description. I also VERY strongly suspect that Rossiter would have either excavated the crack that we did, or bolted the line to protect it, as without doing either, the route would have been R/X and not in keeping with Richard's MO on route development there.

Warlock is no more than 3 Meters left of Yoni.

But I don't know where Rossiter's line is... so I can't be sure... (refer to second attached image). Aug 19, 2005