Teale Tower Route
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.9344, -105.4075 |
| FA: | Brian Teale, 1974. FFA: Gallagher and Williams, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 3,307 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 24, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Description
This route is probably an Elevenmile three star, but I'm taking a broader view. This "Yosemite like" (not really) climb would be a one star in Yosemite.
The obvious corner in middle of the south face of Teale Tower, a few feet to the right of a rounded fist/offwidth crack.
Starts with thin stemming and laybacking (crux) that widens to hands. Pass an offwidth section (#4 Camalot) with classy stemming and laybacking. Belay at a big ledge. Pitch 2 continues up the corner (5.9 crux about 15' up) to the intimidating roof; easier than it looks.
Anti-beta caveats: D'Antonio's guide shows two bolts at the the first belay. There are no bolts here, just a sling wedged in a constriction. Stuart Green's Colorado guide recommends a rack of double 1-4 Friends; this is just plain wrong.




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