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Routes in Teale Tower

Teale Tower Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Brian Teale, 1974. FFA: Gallagher and Williams, 1979
Page Views: 1,954 total · 10/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This route is probably an Elevenmile three star, but I'm taking a broader view. This "Yosemite like" (not really) climb would be a one star in Yosemite.

The obvious corner in middle of the south face of Teale Tower, a few feet to the right of a rounded fist/offwidth crack.

Starts with thin stemming and laybacking (crux) that widens to hands. Pass an offwidth section (#4 Camalot) with classy stemming and laybacking. Belay at a big ledge. Pitch 2 continues up the corner (5.9 crux about 15' up) to the intimidating roof; easier than it looks.

Anti-beta caveats: D'Antonio's guide shows two bolts at the the first belay. There are no bolts here, just a sling wedged in a constriction. Stuart Green's Colorado guide recommends a rack of double 1-4 Friends; this is just plain wrong.


Small to medium nuts. Cams from blue Alien to #4 Camalot. Doubles from 0.5 Friend to 1.5 Friend probably handy.


Larry Shaw  
The belay for the second pitch was junk so I bolted an anchor on the 2nd of July 04. I didn't throw chains or webbing on so if anyone is so inclined, feel free. Jun 2, 2004
Larry Shaw  
Bob, I have no problem with removing the bolts. They were added without contacting the first ascensionist. Do you know who the FA is for the route? There were 3 routes on this rock that were used to teach clean aid climbing techniques in a mountaineering course. This was the convergence point and allowed easy and safe belaying and bailing in bad weather. The location of the anchor makes for a much better belay and allows safe retreat. This is a weak point for changing a route, but I would like to at least try to contact the FA before removing the bolts. Any info on this would be appreciated..Larry. Jul 28, 2005
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Excellent Route....could use a few more ascents to make this superb quality. Mar 28, 2007
Probably a two of three or a three of five star route in Yos. An anchor on the ledge would be pretty nice as the next pitch looks like a piece . IMHO putting an anchor on a ledge you can walk around on and retroing a crack are two different things, but whatever. Oct 7, 2007
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
The second pitch is pretty entertaining, you should try it before assigning "piece" status. As said above, it looks harder than it is and is fun to figure out. The walk-off is easy in climbing shoes. I would like to repeat the request not to add any bolts to this climb (it would indeed be retrobolting, as in adding new bolts after the first ascent). If folks think that the first pitch needs cleaning up to get better, then set up a TR and run some laps. It's a great crack. Nov 4, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
They belay for the second pitch was junk? huh? That makes no sense. I had 2 bomber nuts and 2 bomber tricams and had room for more in two seperate crack systems. No reason for bolts. This is the South Platte.

And the second pitch is actually quite fun, the roof looks way improbable from below. Great route. Jun 28, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
And you don't need anything bigger than a #3 if you fiddle around and are willing to run it out a bit through the wider bits. Jun 28, 2010

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