Teale Tower Route
Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Brian Teale, 1974. FFA: Gallagher and Williams, 1979|
|Page Views:||1,885 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Aug 24, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is probably an Elevenmile three star, but I'm taking a broader view. This "Yosemite like" (not really) climb would be a one star in Yosemite.
The obvious corner in middle of the south face of Teale Tower, a few feet to the right of a rounded fist/offwidth crack.
Starts with thin stemming and laybacking (crux) that widens to hands. Pass an offwidth section (#4 Camalot) with classy stemming and laybacking. Belay at a big ledge. Pitch 2 continues up the corner (5.9 crux about 15' up) to the intimidating roof; easier than it looks.
Anti-beta caveats: D'Antonio's guide shows two bolts at the the first belay. There are no bolts here, just a sling wedged in a constriction. Stuart Green's Colorado guide recommends a rack of double 1-4 Friends; this is just plain wrong.