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Routes in Solaris

Contact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cosmic Explorer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crumbs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Don't Get Me Started S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvest Moon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kundalini Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leftovers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Luminosity, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mephistophiles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission To Mars T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Place In the Universe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Start Me Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stellar Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twilight Zone S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2002
Page Views: 171 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Approach: Go to the main tier of Solaris, traverse left past Contact, and head up a gully on the right. Spot a ledge on the right side of the gully with a line of bolts; this is Twilight Zone. Mephistophiles starts 10' left of Twilight Zone and goes up a left-angling crack system, with one bolt high on the route.

Climb the left-angling finger and hand crack to a stance by a bolt on the steep upper headwall. Make several difficult moves past the bolt, gaining a flared finger and hand crack. Continue up the flared crack to the top.

The rock on this route is still quite dirty, with lots of lichen to spice up the crux headwall.

We top-roped this route after doing Twilight Zone. The protection on the lower part of the route looks reasonable, but the protection in the flared crack at the top looks as if it could be difficult to place.

Protection

Finger-to-hand-sized gear plus one bolt at the crux. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Can top-rope after doing Twilight Zone by traversing over from the Twilight Zone anchor to the Mephistopheles anchor.

Photos

Todd Ra
Golden
Todd Ra   Golden
Don't hesitate to lead this. The crack above the bolt is definitely flared, but it's more of a problem for jams than gear. There are several solid gear placements but zero solid jams :( Oct 11, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This climb does look dirty, especially at the bottom, but it is fun and should not be overlooked. Aug 9, 2013
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This thing is filthy and looks terrible but climbs really well. There is great gear except for the very bottom which is covered in lichen. The bolt is perfectly located right at the only hard move.... May 25, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Nice use of the word "festooned" Tony! Aug 14, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
This climb is better than it looks from the ground and with some thought and effort can be completely festooned with gear, even above the bolt. Jun 5, 2006