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Routes in The Zoids

Antithesis T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bonzoid Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caucasoid Corner TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caucasoid Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caucasoid Wall TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face Full o' Bush T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall is in the Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Finger Frenzy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lick Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Shoes TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peeled and Deveined TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Petting Zoo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poloroid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sedated Racoon TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warren Piece TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Young Wretches TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: [Tom Hanson, Joe Desimone, 1986-7]
Page Views: 88 total, 0/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

To locate this route, look for the first, large south-facing wall at the Zoids, coming from the north. There are large blocks beneath the right part of this wall and the wall that makes up the corner. FFF is the obvious overhanging finger crack at the left (west) end of the wall.

The route is pretty fun, but some of the rock is crumbly (needs a little cleaning) and the pro to start is not that good. This is why it gets the R rating. The rock quality at the start is not too good, and I don't think a cam would hold very well. At the undercling, a reasonable cam or two may be placed, but this is it until you've made the first crux move.

The only other spot to place a bit of gear before the crux is needed for your hand to jam. Moving into this sequence is really fun. If it seems harder than 11b moving up to the bulge, you're missing a hidden, mini-jug. There is another crux moving past the bulge. Before cranking this crux, there is an opportunity to place some more gear.

Since the whole route is overhanging, it is a little pumpy, but you get a break at a ledge before the last little boulder problem. Getting started at the end is a little insecure, but pro is easy to place at your head. You get some nice exposure to finish up.

Protection

Dicey pro--small to medium cams.

For a TR, use several long slings, some hexes, and a #4 Friend if you have one along.

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