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Routes in Three Buffoons

Anus Great T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cheek TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Right Cheek T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: P. Ament, Van Freeman, & J. Dahlstrom, 1970
Page Views: 147 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a short, wide (fists & offwidth) crack on the R side of the Three Buffoons formation. It carries an odd name with unclear history. It remains in the shade in the morning. It is for the seekers of the obscure & close or the cogno-lost.

Move up the lower block on the left (looser), arete (no pro, 5.7), or the crack on the right (hands) and gain a ledge. Offwidth or face climb the bulgy start, get into the crack, and you are done, 50 feet. Walk off left.

This is on the lean side of 1 star.

Beware of leaving your rope piled up in poison ivy.


3-5 cams in the #3 to 4 Camalot size. Or 6x48 inch slings to TR off the tree.



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