[Hide Comment] Outstanding, one of my first routes back since knee reconstruction. Great Line Jul 2, 2005

[Hide Comment] I forgot to mention that you will need to bring two long runners for the second and third bolts. If you do not use long runners you will have huge rope drag at the top.

Also, I have decided to downgrade the route to 5.11a. After climbing it a few times and listening to others, I feel 11a is a more accurate grade.

Thanks,

Thor Jul 9, 2005

[Hide Comment] Excellent route. Sustained and pumpy, but with salvation holds when you need them. Don't let the crux intimidate you - the jug is up there waiting for you if you don't give up on the thin part. Take heed of Thor's recommendation to put longer runners on the initial bolts under the first roof. That rope drag isn't fun on the crux. I have to express my thanks to Thor and others for putting in these new routes. They are a great addition to this wall. One thing I'd recommend though is spray painting the hangers on the arete climbs - those bolts are way obvious from the road. Given all the talk about a climbing management plan for the canyon, stealth is advisable. Jul 14, 2005

[Hide Comment] The bolts should be spray painted BEFORE installation, so just be careful now that they are in place so the rock isn't painted. Thanks. Jul 14, 2005

[Hide Comment] Quite good.

I think it's easiest to skip the first bolt (a spot is more than sufficient to protect the one thin move before jugs) and just bump one quick draw up the 2nd, 3rd, and leave it at the 4th. Sep 11, 2005

[Hide Comment] Gauging from the amount of chalk lots of people are climbing around the crux to the left in an easy crack. The route goes right of the clip at the lip on thin pumpy overhanging face. If you go left to the crack, you have not done the route as originally intended.

Thor May 26, 2006

[Hide Comment] You can also go with the bolt at your right shoulder in an interesting opposition and stem sequence that is probably a little harder that to the right.
Decent line that is quite long and draws its merit from that, mostly. These 35m lines are always a plus, from my perspective, as I like long pitches.
The line and bolts wander around a little, so a rack of slings and draws were handy to have- various lengths placed allowed me to have a more or less straight rope and virtually no drag the whole way. Aug 23, 2006

[Hide Comment] What Thor said. Bring extenders for the 2nd and 3rd bolts, otherwise you'll be fighting drag at the crucial, 11a moment. While you're at it, skip bolt #5 (the one AFTER the heinous roof) for the same reason. #6 is very close at hand, and it's only a handful of 5.7 moves to get there.

For that matter, skip the first bolt--it's about useless and makes for horrendous drag. If you're leading 11a, then moving through the 5.8 sequence to hit the second bolt should be no prob. Besides, clipping the first bolt means you belayer is either a) too close under the roof (to avoid being pulled laterally) to watch the leader effectively, or else s/he gets yanked off their feet because s/he's leaning way back to watch when you pop at the crux.

The opening roof movements, by the way, are 10 meters of pure joy. For extra spice points: DON'T clip the THANKGOD fourth bolt until you get both mitts up and your right, INSIDE leg heel hookin' on the jug. Let the left leg fly for style points, and harvest your well-earned OOOhhhhss and AAAaahhhhhsss....

Oh. And? My first ever, 11a onsight. Yea, me. (Anybody else suspect this might only be a double crux 10d in disguise? It'd be my first ever 11 onsite, so just checkin'.)

Last hint: don't go plunging for the huge jugs above the crux if'n it's just rained. Go for tips or one-knuckle deep instead, lest you want to go swimming.... Aug 27, 2009

[Hide Comment] I got the onsight the other day on this route, awesome climb, and feels solid at the 11 grade... A heel hook plus a high step were key to saving energy going into the crux for me.... I didn't put long draws on the bottom bolts... but felt the drag for sure..., Fun climb.... Sep 24, 2012

[Hide Comment] Engaging... love where the jug is located round the top of the headwall! Great movement all around! Very solid. The bottom low overhanging face was fun as well! Bravo! Jul 9, 2013

[Hide Comment] Sick route, lots of different slab/roof/bulge/technical climbing, fun crux up high.

I didn't extend any nor get any noticeable rope drag.

I also thought the moves off the ground were tricky, and I wouldn't recommend skipping the first bolt unless you stickclip the second. Jun 27, 2020

[Hide Comment] Every person I have seen climb this route lately skips the crux by going left at the steep face, and it really confuses me. To each their own, but I guess I prefer being challenged, and I thought the crux move was super fun. Jul 10, 2021

[Hide Comment] I thought this was a great route. You can tell a lot of people skip the crux and go left, which I think takes away from the route. Going straight up the roof makes it more challenging and fun. May 7, 2023