Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|FA:||? S.Annecone and T.Hayes, 6-26-05|
|Page Views:||509 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Annecone on Jun 25, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
For 2018, the closure appears to have been lifted per the NPS website, and the backcountry office (970-586-1242) has confirmed this for 2018.
For more info, see the NPS website:
The climbing starts up moderate terrain in an inset between two corners. Continue up the right-facing corner (left side of inset) to a small roof. The crux climbing is getting past the roof and through the next 15 feet or so, and involves wild lie-backing and sidepulls out left with fairly thin feet (5.10b sustained). At the top of this, follow the crack slightly left to the next big corner and stem and layback the corner (5.9 spicy). Continue up and a little left to the next corner (5.8 spicy). Bring a 60-meter or longer rope, it's a long pitch.
Belay on or just below Stagway. This pitch ends about where the first pitch of Center Face Left ends. From here, you can continue up any of the other routes mentioned above, or traverse left along Stagway to the start of Nun Buttress and an easy downclimb to the base.
This climb is clean, with little lichen and high rock quality, fairly sustained in the 5.8 to 5.10- range, and a lot of fun! I almost gave it 3 stars but don't know the other routes on the rock well enough to do so. I did notice a bit of chalk on some holds in the crux area, so it's possible the route has been climbed before and recently.