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Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 11
votes
Routes in Holdout
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19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cement Shoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V-easy 3 |
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Currey's Diagonal T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Equilibrium T V10-11 8A |
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Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Layback Approach Offwidth T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nadia's Kiss of Death T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Narrow Bushwhack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Through Thick and Thin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Billy V0-1 4+ |
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Unknown Funky Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Paul Piana, 7/19/82, aided in the 1970s |
| Page Views: | 3,081 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jun 18, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
On the far left side of the shady side of the Holdout, past Currey's Diagonal, and above the leaning boulder/chimney/cave, is a steep seam. This is RRC.
Begin either on top of the huge boulder, or traverse in from the left by climbing the first 10 feet of a flared finger crack and step across to the huge boulder. Climb the obvious seam to the top. The climbing is sustained and difficult with a distict stopper crux in the lower section. A great rest comes in the middle, followed by another crux section of sharp micro crimping at the top.
I would imagine that 99% of the traffic this route sees is as a toprope for folks who climb Oslund's and rap right over it. The gear looks decent, but is very small and would be extremely difficult to place from heinously strenuous stances. Not sandbagged as a Vedauwoo 12a, but seems undergraded as a seam/tips crack. I would think this would deserve a PG/R rating as a lead. A testament to the ability and boldness of Skinner and Piana to those who continue to slag their achievements and vision to this day.
Begin either on top of the huge boulder, or traverse in from the left by climbing the first 10 feet of a flared finger crack and step across to the huge boulder. Climb the obvious seam to the top. The climbing is sustained and difficult with a distict stopper crux in the lower section. A great rest comes in the middle, followed by another crux section of sharp micro crimping at the top.
I would imagine that 99% of the traffic this route sees is as a toprope for folks who climb Oslund's and rap right over it. The gear looks decent, but is very small and would be extremely difficult to place from heinously strenuous stances. Not sandbagged as a Vedauwoo 12a, but seems undergraded as a seam/tips crack. I would think this would deserve a PG/R rating as a lead. A testament to the ability and boldness of Skinner and Piana to those who continue to slag their achievements and vision to this day.
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