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Dovercourt
5.7,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 32
votes
FA: Bob and Lisa Eakle
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Main Canyon: Un…
> Sun Tower Complex
> Sun Towers
Access Issue: PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Details
Sun Towers is on private property and currently closed to climbing. It is posted no trespassing. Please respect the closure to not jeopardize possible future access.
Description
Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.
The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arĂȘte. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.
Protection
Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.
[Hide Photo] Just above the route's one bolt.
[Hide Photo] About mid-way up the route. This is where the route starts to get thin.
Parker, CO
Cedaredge, CO
Las Vegas, NV
A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley. Sep 17, 2013