PRINT: Rock Climb Prince of Darkness, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Prince of Darkness

5.11a, Trad,

Avg: 3 from 141 votes
FA: Chris Archer, Stephan DeWet, Cris Ann Crylsdale, 1988.
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part E - to…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is one of the last routes up the West Ridge. It's actually a separate rock, just west of where the West Ridge descent trail kicks you out. The black, shaded north face is split by this line. A wide slot runs up and left, while a diagonal hand crack runs up and right. In between these, four bolts continue straight up the thin face, through 2 distinct huecos. A nice line, and a good one to seek out when the rest of the rock is baking hot.

Protection

4 draws, ~#3 Camalot, and something smaller for up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tom Robinson with a clean lead of "Prince of Darkness". Second try, and first try that day. Had to climb 50 feet into a pine tree to get the shot.

Eric leading Prince of Darkness.

Sharp crimpers and shiny footholds.

Dave Holliday past the crux of 'Prince of Darkness' - 4/27/07. Photo: Aaron

Between bolt 2 and 3 with my foot in a hueco!!

Thin fun and sharp !!!

first ascent

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

This is a great line! Superb climbing. It gives you just enough to keep moving up. Thanks, Chris. Mar 7, 2002

Adam Brink
trying to get to Sardinia

Beautiful slab climbing! This is an underappreciated Eldo classic. Oct 23, 2002

Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO

The something else for the top is a #1 Camalot. Red Cam! Red Cam! Apr 30, 2003

david goldstein

It should be pointed out that this climb is quite height dependent -- easier if taller. Do the direct start for extra value. Beautiful rock. Sharp, tweaky moves. Too short and straightforward to be a three star. Jul 4, 2003

Kirk Woerner

I did this today again. At the top, (just below the crack with the tree in it) you'll be tempted to go right a bit and get a jug, but you CAN go straight up the face to the horizontal. It's very crimpy (like more so even than down below), but fun and next time I lead it, I'll try it this way since the bolt is right there...ahhh the "next times" :) Sep 21, 2003

Jim Amidon

5.11a

Real nice route, good pro, good rock, great finish.....short but sweet.... Oct 12, 2003

Chris Archer

5.11a

I'm glad people are enjoying the route. The grade is certainly height dependent. I did the route again recently and still think 11a is a fair grade for average height climbers, if you're 6 feet or taller it's probably 5.10 something, if 5'6" or shorter 5.11 something. It's also chalk dependent. The last time I had done this route was about 5 years earlier in the sun on a hot day with Jim Erickson who led it sans chalk: 12c. Bolts were replaced in October 2003. Nov 12, 2003

SirVato SirVato
Boulder

Awesome pitch!!! Sharp positve edges to cling to but, so small!! For me the crux was the move to the hueco, my friend just jumped for it, I had to use some fancy footwork!! Apr 21, 2004

Kevin Neilson
Boulder

5.11a

I like this route because I can go to Eldo and still be a "sport wanker", as my friends like to denigrate me. I struggled earlier this year on my onsight attempt but had no issues today; the crimps are small, but solid, and the slight slabbiness allows for some resting. On my first attempt I tried to stay directly on the bolt line at the top, as Kirk suggests, but today I reached right to the crack. I suspect this is how most people do it since most people say the crux is getting to the bottom hueco, and avoiding the crack at the top seems like much thinner moves. I used three pieces besides the anchor: a 3.5 Camalot for the bottom, a gold Camalot right above it, and a red Camalot above the last bolt. Nov 6, 2005

climberz

5.11b

The crux hold is broken. The climb is a bit harder now. Don't know how much harder (I could not do it), maybe 11c-11d? Too bad, the old hold was one of the best crimpers in memory. Sep 21, 2008

Kat A
Boulder, CO

Great line. Not sure about any broken holds as it was my first time on it, but it felt 5.11a-ish to me (I'm 5'4"). Oct 19, 2008

Ryan Rickard

5.10d

Balancy moves on sharp crimps, good fun! I'm not sure about any broken holds, this was my first time as well, but felt it was 10d or so. I'm 5.10 with monkey arms, so it does seem to be height dependent. Mar 9, 2009

Ryan Brough
Orem, UT

5.11a

Great bolt placements! May 7, 2009

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT

5.11

Felt harder than 11a to me. Everyone on here calling it 11a onsite it?! Or did you do it with beta? Nov 7, 2011

slim

5.10d

Onsight, but I am pretty tall and was pretty dialed at slab climbing when I did it. I seem to remember some sort of 'stand up' move with an overhead thumbdercling or something like that. One thing that also helped (for me) was that for Eldo, the protection was excellent (good bolt right there), so I didn't have to worry about falling. Nov 8, 2011

Darren Mabe

5.10+

Ditto, Slim. Nov 8, 2011

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT

5.11

I guess it's time for me to accept that gym ability has nothing to do with the ability to climb slab on slippery Eldo rock... and that I'm a punter. Nov 8, 2011

slim

5.10d

I think you are also a bit shorter, maybe 5'9" or so? Probably just didn't get set up for it the best way or some minor thing like that. Having seen you grapple some horrific plastic, I'm thinking you're probably not a punter. Maybe go huck another lap on it and see if it feels easier. Nov 9, 2011

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.11-

Phil,
I think 11 is right on, and there are some thin holds. If you did it on a hot day in full sun, then I imagine it was low percentage. There are also some side-to side movements in the route here and there.
Some routes just are not for some people because it specializes in a particular move (weakness), so don't fret it. A step up from Prince of Darkness, but in the same genre, is Le Boomerang. At a slightly lower level but slightly more 'exciting' is Mrs. Clean Gets Down. You have a shot at those still, OS.
So maybe work POD, and then when you get it, go get the other two right a way to wear in that recently gained experience and put it to use. Nov 10, 2011

Aaron Martinuzzi

It's been a little while since I was climbing in Eldo, but I do remember Prince of Darkness being a tougher onsight than Super Slab. PoD definitely has a tech-y element to it that wasn't quite as present on SS. Nov 16, 2011

Vincent K
Boulder, CO

I agree that a #1 red Camalot is what you want for the horizontal crack towards the top. Nov 1, 2015

Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO

Led this route today in the shade, absolutely no chalk on the route whatsoever. After shopping for holds, hanging the draws and figuring out the beta mid-route, I think 11a is still an accurate grade (although very style-dependent). A 0.5 or 0.75 before the 1st bolt and a #1 C4 after the 4th bolts is nice. Fantastic route. Mar 6, 2016

Weston Hamilton
Boulder

5.11a

Awesome position and fun slab. Pretty hard move/sequence to land the hueco. Small and sharp holds. The upper section is great slab climbing that I wish continued. It is harder than any 11a BoCan slab I’ve done, but that seems to be fair at 11a. Nov 14, 2024

philip schreiber
boulder

Amazing route! I highly recommend finishing as follows for bonus fun: when you reach the long, horizontal crack at the top, place your red #1 Friend, step up with your feet in the crack, and do a delicate but easy/scary(?) no hands traverse left, feet in the crack, hands on brail. By the time you reach the end of the traverse, you will be a bit runout, and breath a sigh when you reach the end of the crack. It reminded me of Thank God Ledge on Half Dome. Four stars with this finish!!! Mar 30, 2025