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Routes in Turd Boulder aka Leaning Boulder

Genital Grinder? Ground Control? V5-6 6C+
Leaning Overhang V5- 6C
Stanturd Route V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: [Tom Gage] (?)
Page Views: 2,065 total, 14/month
Shared By: XOG on Jun 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start low and left with hands matched on an undercling. Cross left onto a classic Sanitas shear-edge and throw out right to an edge with a thumb-catch. Swing legs out right and heel hook, then throw straight up to a good knob. Pull in with the heel and crimp hard on a tiny edge for the right hand, then make a committing move (even though only 2 feet off the ground there is a rock just behind your back that you don't want to pop off backwards onto) that involves moving the left hand off the knob to the right onto an edge (but not crossing, i.e. still to the left of the right hand by a foot or so). Now reach far right to a positive edge or incut below the lip, cross with the left onto a scooped out pocket (still with the rock just behind your back, but with less difficult climbing now - nevertheless stay off the bigger holds up on the lip to make this more fun), go right into a crack with a finger lock at the bottom for the right hand. Cross left up high onto a polished surface and finish on easier but still very fun moves out the underside of the arete, finally moving back left onto the main face for the exit move. This packs a good 13 or so lowball moves and is a fun problem in a secluded setting away from the mainstream Sanitas activity.

Protection

N/A. Good spot is desirable because of the boulder behind you.

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