Nearer To Thee
Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
Routes in Ra
|Empire of the Air T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Higher Calling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Miner's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Moving Zen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Nearer To Thee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Rohan Face, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smeagol's Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Strike It Rich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Training Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Waimea S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Walk On Water S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Windows On the World S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 320 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 6/05|
|Page Views:||3,660 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Tarrant on Jun 4, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop EOA's second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of EOA, paralleling Higher Calling, to the top.
Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).
Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).
Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.
The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.