Type: Sport, 320 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 6/05
Page Views: 4,159 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Jun 4, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop EOA's second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of EOA, paralleling Higher Calling, to the top.

Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).

Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).

Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.

The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.

Protection

12 to 18 draws depending on how pitches are combined, with 2-bolt anchors after each pitch.
Tod Anderson
  5.11c
Tod Anderson  
  5.11c
Good route, but probably a bit harder than 11a. The crux was made especially challenging by the somewhat slippery nature of the rock making it hard to just pull real hard to get through. Well bolted. Sep 28, 2005
orin bakal-molnar
pagosa spgs, colorado
  5.11b/c
orin bakal-molnar   pagosa spgs, colorado
  5.11b/c
This is an excellent rock climb! The first pitches feel sustained for 5.10-, but maybe we just weren't warmed up yet. The slab pitch is fantastic, made even more interesting by the fact that there is no line of white chalk marks to follow. Beautiful rock with great moves and incredible position. I wish the rest of the climb was as good, but thankfully it is good enough. I thought the final pitch was a lot of fun too, a real mind opener. Great work on bolting this climb. Jul 7, 2006
scott e. tarrant
Fort Collins
 
scott e. tarrant   Fort Collins
 
Very fun climb. Good sampling of what you will get on other routes at Ra. I would say 5.11c as an on-sight grade. Again and as with other routes here, no move may be harder than 5.11a, but these are pretty relentless stretches of rock. I fell off of some holds big enough to set a stool on and churn butter! Great movement, awesome position and really fun climbing!

L.E.O. XO May 21, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
I want out with Jason Haas today and did this thing. GREAT climb from top to bottom. I wish we'd gooten to the sloper crux prior to the sun hitting it though. I can imagine that the P3 crux is easier in cool crisp weather, but dang-nabbit, I think it is hard 11 in the sun if it is warm out. Bloody desperate! Jun 17, 2007
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11c
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11c
Great route, great climbing, thank you for bolting this. These ratings are more like Rifle or Eldo ratings. Not trying to be picky, but if you are a Clear Creek climber, you better be leading 12s, this is a stiff middle pitch, and it is a thin, sustained onsight. The first pitch is stiff for a 10a leader. Second pitch is 10-. What a treat to have a real alpine rock experience in your back yard. There is no one up there and you are suspended thousands of feet above the Valley. This must be done. Day on RA. Aug 19, 2011
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11c
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11c
Diana and I went up there for the second time in two weeks. it's hard to believe there is such excellent climbing in our back yard. This is the real deal , thank you, Mark and Richard for putting up the splendid climbs on RA. Many sport climbers, if you don't hike a little will never experience the true alpine environment. There is no reason to leave these climbs on RA off you list. Sep 2, 2011
Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11c
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11c
This is great climbing and a whole world has opened up for Alpine climbing in the upper Clear Creek region, thanks to Mark and Richard. Sep 2, 2011
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Did this on 8/12 and thought I would add an updated comment:

We ran the 1st two pitches of EOA together and then stepped slightly left before the cold shots on EOA to a chain anchor on a nice ledge. This is the 1st pitch of Nearer.

It is hard right off the deck: steep pulling off a crimp in back of the finger crack with a large move to a rounded shelf that you match on then mantel up on into a small dihedral where you can stem rest. I would say about 11c. The next moves were harder than anyhting I enoucounted on Windows (12b). Something may have broke? I had to use my left hand on a sloping arete (poor hold) then high step right foot and launch to a small flat scoop. Really long reach, if you are tall then it would probably be in the 11d range, since the scoop is pretty good. Short people like me it felt 12a/b and like I said harder than anything on Windows.

The last pitch was broken by a big shelf about halfway up, and I could not figure out how to get off the shelf at 10d. Something broke again maybe??? I had to resort to using the bolt as a foothold to reach the only obvious crimp. Aug 14, 2017
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11c
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11c
Mike, I'm thinking you did a different route as your description does not match how Nearer to Thee climbs. There is no mantel or dihedral and the last pitch does not have a big shelf. I'm wondering if you did the pitch to the right of EOA instead of to the left. Jun 11, 2018