PRINT: Rock Climb Wrath, Lumpy Ridge

Wrath

5.12, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jason Seaver 4-9-05 (5.9 C2) FFA: Jason Seaver 5-14-05
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Gollum's Arch Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This new pitch is located on the upper tier of the large expanse of rock separating the route Gollum's Arch on the left side of the cliff and Latch Hand on the far right side of the wall. Walk past Seam-stress and Gollum's Arch along the base of the wall, boulder up into a hanging gully beneath an overhanging, rotten section of the cliff, and scramble up to the gully's highpoint. (Latch Hand is just down to the right at this point). From this high point in the gully, climb a 4th class ledge system / ramp straight out left to a big, perched ledge at the base of the route. You'll want a blue camalot and a blue TCU for an anchor here.

This is a rowdy little pitch with a vicious crux section. The line of the pitch forms a perfect 7 (more visible from the approach gully). Climb the obvious, right-leaning seam in the headwall for 30' to where it meets a left-angling dike system. Follow the dike out left for 15' to a small, left-facing corner, then pull straight up onto the slab and a slung flake anchor. The gear between the bolt and the left-angling dike is small, very strenuous to place, and crucial to keep the climbing safe.

If anyone cares: I originally established the pitch aid-solo at something like 5.9 C2 (I'm not an aid climber). After some toproping, and determining its freeclimbability, I re-aided the pitch and placed the bolt on lead.

This is the latest addition to (and possibly the hardest in) a sick circuit of seams in this vicinity. Also check out Two In The Pink (11+) and Hagakure (12a) on the Hens and Chickens; and Seamstress (11d) and Latch Hand (11c) on Gollum's.

Protection

To belay on the ledge beneath the pitch you'll need a blue Camalot. For the route you'll need RPs, HB Offsets, small stoppers, and cams up to 1". 1 bolt keeps it safe.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The line of Wrath. I'd love to get someone to repeat this little pitch so I could get some action photos. Anybody?