Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Grossman & Phil Broscovak
Page Views: 4,125 total · 25/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on May 29, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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When looking at the Big Roof there is a prominent crack through the roof that is shapped like a bombay Vee slot. That is 'Welcome to China' 5.12. 15 feet to the right is an astounding S shapped thin crack that splits the entire roof. This route is 'Double time at Sue's Place'. Start from under the Big Roof and ascend either 'Bronco Billy's' or 'Guanos Dias' to the base of the roof. Set what ever gear you feel comfortable with, grab the first holds, pick up your feet and go Michaelangello go! This route doesn't let up for a second until you get past the lip. The first ascent was done in the early eighties over a six day effort and in good style. All gear was clean and placed on lead and the rope was pulled between efforts.


Mostly intricate small wired stoppers.
phil broscovak
phil broscovak  
The first ascent required several BIG swings over six days and seven cases of Cooper's Stout. Chuck and I had a bet. Whoever got established over the lip first would get a case of Cooper's from the other. Since we thought it would go any day we always brought the case along for the ride. After the high piece was clipped there was nothing to do but gulp and go for it. One thing led to another and before sun down we would need another case. In retrospect we might have been able to do the1st in fewer (hiccup)days but no one ever accused us of being sober thinkers. Chuck is an amazing and powerfull musician and a pretty good climber too. He gets all the credit for the drive and vision of this stellar test piece. More than anything my primary contribution was to be quick enough to reel in enough rope to keep chucks hurtling body and unprotected skull from smacking into the Guanos Dias arete, sometimes by inches! *note: the pics below were taken by Gary Skipp, I am the freek in the geek suit. May 30, 2005
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Great photos phil! May 30, 2005
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
A badge of honor! Apr 20, 2008
phil broscovak
phil broscovak  
Better than all the scars of shame I possess. Apr 21, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
We did the first ascent of "Welcome to China" using the same boozy tactics the year prior. I actually took Chuck out to dinner (big deal for a 17 year old) the night he first reached the lip. I got the lip the next day and he took me out. Anyhow I'd explain the name of Double time but this is a family website. Use your imagination. Jun 4, 2009
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
So Allen, it sounds like your name should be up there on the banner of Welcome to China, along with Chuck's, for the FA.

And maybe add a little to the description. Jun 4, 2009