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Routes in Triangle Rock

Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 27, 2005
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description [Edit]

This is a route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It may be considered a variation to Bucket Brigade; however, the climbing is distinct except for a rest before the traverse to the 'bucket' of Bucket Brigade. It forms a skinny X with Bucket Brigade on a topo. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable, due to the start & tree at midheight. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

This line is the 2nd dihedral from the left. It starts in a nook with pinching, jamming, and liebacking. There are a couple small cam placements to start. An efficient climber may find stems & jams at the first obvious lieback stretch, where the less-mentally-nimble, like meself, will power into a slightly sketchy lieback. Gain a good rest 3/4 up. Here, fire another lieback to the top. (Beta, left foot at the good hold works better.) 60 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Any help with the real name?

Protection [Edit]

Mostly cams. Perhaps this is better for a TR.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The crux is the undercling flake up high, which is mostly sloper. Good moves. Aug 15, 2017

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