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Routes in Triangle Rock

Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: S. Kimball, Wylie, M. Wilford, 1980
Page Views: 76 total, 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It is the left-most line, catching a finger crack on its upper half. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable, due to the start & tree at midheight. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

This line heads up to a small tree (with an ugly upward pointing branch). Delicately move through an unprotected & licheny start to gain a tree about 20 feet up. Move up into the finger crack. One can find an undercling in the crack. Fire to the top. 40 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Protection

Some nuts & smaller cams, a bit of courage for the start. Perhaps it is better for a TR.

Photos

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