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Routes in Triangle Rock

Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: B. Westbay & S. Kimball, 1981
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It lies just uphill & left of Stud Pile. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

On the North face of Triangle Rock there is a series of 4 dihedrals. The line that best seems to match S. Kimball's guidebook description of gritty flakes seems to start just to the left of the left-most dihedral (perhaps S. Kimball can clarify?). Step up, find pro in a horizontal to the left, move up into the dihedral with face holds on the right. Gain the top of a flake. Here you step right with a bit of an airy feeling aiming for a prominent jug/bucket to the right. Find a small cam placement before you reach the bucket. Note, the bucket does not feel solid (hence, the taste for a TR); however, you can face climb on smaller features & avoid this bucket. Fire to the top. 60 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Protection

Mostly cams, slings, a bit of trust. The TR anchors are #0.75 to #1 Camalot size.

Photos

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