PRINT: Rock Climb No Known Cure, Lumpy Ridge

No Known Cure

5.8, Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 1 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Batman Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

Start just left of the 5.7 variation start of Hand Jive. Gillett's guide gives this route a star, but once you get above the clean nice looking start, the dihedral is a loose chossy hunk and I wouldn't recommend it. I kept pelting my belayer with the flakes I was touching and occasional quartz knob that pulled off in my hand. This would probably be a good route if it was done more often and cleaned up.

1) Start about 15 feet left of the small pine tree that marks the 5.7 variation of Hand Jive. Stem up a wide slot with little pro and jam/lieback the dihedral where the slot ends. Climb about 100 feet to a point where a wide and very flared horizontal crack shoots out the left side of the dihedral.

2) Traverse left out the horizontal crack, then wander up mostly easy (and clean!) face to the summit.

Protection

Standard rack.