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Routes in Rock Island II

Candelaria's Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Practice Aid Climb T,TR C2
Two Move Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,173 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on May 21, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a short aid climb that goes up the roof to climbers left on Candelaria's Crack. It is found by the single quarter inch bolt halfway up the roof. I aided it as a toprope and would think there could be potential ground fall if led without placing pins/bolts. Avoid the crack/corner to the left and go straight to the bolt and up and over. There was a solid #2 stopper placement (not used to saying that) in a crack one move below the bolt. The rest of the placements (just 3-4 besides the bolt) utilized two different sized cam hooks that might have taken solid lost arrows or knifeblades (as evidenced by some scarring) but this didn't seem like the place to be pounding pins to me. For an anchor, there is a large boulder that can be wrapped about 100' up the hillside above.

Protection

Small pro--RPs, micro cams and some cam hooks

Photos

James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
This can be and should be climbed clean. A standard cam hook does the trick at the lip. Apr 4, 2008