Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Crackside

5.9+, Trad,  Avg: 2.5 from 29 votes
FA: K. Trout, K. Miller, R. Kirkpatrick, '70s (updated by D. Mabe, 3/05)
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Creek Side
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Crackside follows the obvious, arching crack system on the right side of the south-facing Creek Side wall on the east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from the cottonwood tree to the belay pod of Guppy and Fish and Chips (small pine tree). Right bolted traverse (5.2) above the water (3 bolts) to a small rock perch and two bolt anchor.

Climb above the belay, clip a bolt and step into the arching crack. Jam the crack until it stops and traverse right (crux) to join with another crack. Continue up to a nice ledge with 2 bolt lowering anchor (90').

If you pay attention, your rope won't get wet when you pull it.

Crackside is fun moderate traditional route with great location, good pro, and classic movement between cracks.

Protection

SR up to #3 Camalot. 3 protection bolts. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

South Creek Side Wall:<br>
<br>
F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p. <br>
G. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p. <br>
H. Guppy, 8+, 1p. <br>
IG. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p. <br>
J. Crackside, 9+, 1p.
[Hide Photo] South Creek Side Wall: F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p. G. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p. H. Guppy, 8+, 1p. IG. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p. J. Crackside, 9+, 1p.
Dave enjoys the line.
[Hide Photo] Dave enjoys the line.
A lovely climb; this pic is doing somewhat half-justice to the positioning you actually get on the crag.
[Hide Photo] A lovely climb; this pic is doing somewhat half-justice to the positioning you actually get on the crag.
Crackside is better than sitting at home by a long shot.
[Hide Photo] Crackside is better than sitting at home by a long shot.
Crackside waiting for spring.
[Hide Photo] Crackside waiting for spring.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kim
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] What fun! This route has a beautiful crack system. The move between the cracks was a little dicey for me but well protected. This wall is well worth your time. May 31, 2005
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] BTW, it's almost exactly 100' down to the good ledge. Good route. May 17, 2009
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly fun route. The crux for me was clipping the bolt after the crack. I ended up climbing by the two bolts on the direct variation, but then going right to the lower anchor. Apr 3, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] FWIW, you can do this with a #1 Camalot and smaller rack. Mar 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I replaced the tat at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. Thanks to the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware. Donate today!

Oct 10, 2016