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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 10/87
Page Views: 5,759 total, 38/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on May 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

This route climbs the spectacular rust-colored wall immediately right of the Virgin painting.

This is a really great route for the grade. Unlike many of the hard routes in Penitente, it is not just a one move wonder, but it demands sustained effort all the way to the chains. I found one hard/reachy move getting to the 2nd bolt (will be no problem for taller people), then generally very consistent difficulty to the very top. I would consider this to be the 2nd must-do route after "Bullet the Blue Sky".

There is at least one really obvious enhanced pocket on this route which is a real shame. From what I could see, it was another case of pointless chipping, as the hold in question seemed to be just fine without the "improvement". Thinking back, there were probably other holds as well, but I didn't scrutinize every one. For the record, Bob D. was not the chipper, it was some AC. If you are one of those who refuses to climb on chipped routes, then in this case, it will be your loss, as this route is really worthwhile, despite the cowardly act of some numbnutz.

As for the grade? I thought it was quite a bit harder than "Bullet the Blue Sky". The moves are easier than "Color of Devotion" but more sustained...so all-in-all, slightly easier.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
To Mike Carnes:

Not trying to resurrect an old discussion, but I just stumbled upon it and can't resist.
Crash pads or not, falling from here
would leave one hell of a mess. Oct 15, 2007
Hey Bobby D. Glad we could come to a mutual understanding, and I would like to get out some time as well, it would be good for my climbing and perhaps push my number grade up a little climbing with someone stronger than me. Oct 25, 2005
That's the whole point I wasn't slagging on anyone. I was just saying that short bolted lines are better saved for short bolted areas. No slagging and no posing meant towards you there Bobby. Oct 20, 2005
ac
ac  
Mike, don't be so hard on yourself. Beware of Trolls. Oct 20, 2005
I'll play nice. I can't believe all of this has come out of my comment about the fact that short bolted slabs at Lumpy would be better saved for a place like Penitente. I have climbed on many of Bob's routes throughout the state.....(It's kind of hard not to, there's so many) and enjoyed some of them very much. I'm not knocking P.C. that's some of the finest edging I've found anywhere. I don't even know how the Virgin climb became a part of this because I never mentioned it in my previous remark it just somehow was brought up. The point of this whole thing is...people have different tastes and different climbing styles, [therefore] they will have different opinions about different areas. Last I checked that wasn't offensive or wrong. Basically here's the moral to all of this....If you can't handle people having different opinions than yourself, then maybe you should reconsider placing bolts that will last for 20-30 years, because over such a large time frame there's going to be a lot of opinions created especially on the more popular climbs. Since Bob has bolted most of this state I'll be sure to reference some place like Montana next time so that I don't offend anyone. Oct 20, 2005
By the way, according to this site I counted 14 climbs 5.10 and under and 13 climbs 5.11 and over. That makes the majority of the climbs there 5.10 range. Looks like I'm not left out after all Bobby D., especially since half the climbs between 5.11 and easy 5.12 are one move wonders off the ground and 5.9 to the anchors. Maybe I will go back, and with a crash pad, and do the first ten feet of almost every climb there, that way I will have done the crux's of what is apparently your crown jewel. Oct 19, 2005
Yeah, I guess that does leave me out pads or no pads. Especially since I don't even boulder or own a pad. I'm just saying that a lot of the routes I've climbed at P.C. seem to finish right after they start. Why do you have such a problem about this opinion. I know I'm not the first one to express this about P.C. I lived in that area for a number of years and haven't been back since, maybe I should revisit it. Would that make you feel better if I went back there climbed then got on this site and sang praises? Oct 19, 2005
Yeahhhh, you go Bobby D. Spewing was it? Wow, didn't realize I was spewing, nor did I realize that commenting on the small length of the routes in Penitente would insult you personally. It's not your fault that the cliffs there are short. After a little research I see that you bolted a lot of lines there. My remarks made were prior to knowing of your involvement in Penitente. All I was trying to do was help you in your responses so we "the public" don't have to read the same thing twice. By the way, good job on not repeating what I said, it made your response much more enjoyable to read. Oh, and also I can think of at least 4 famous boulder problems that are taller than most of Penitente Canyon, and get bouldered often enough by people to warrant my remark before. There's something we all can agree on and that's the fact that Crash Pads are changing what people are bouldering these days, and I know they weren't around when you bolted Penitente. With time, things change, and that's what's happened here. Isn't it funny how things that were once cool no longer are due to changes we can't prevent. Let me know if you don't understand what I'm saying here. Oct 19, 2005
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
In general, people are not very good at aretes because they don't get much practice. At the risk of sounding like a pompous ass: I have done a bunch of aretes because I climb a lot at Smith Rock, Oregon. In the context of Smith, Bullet the Blue Sky is not that hard! In my opinion, "A Virgin No More" is quite a bit harder than "Bullet", but that's just me.

All that really matters is the star rating, and I think it deserves 3. There aren't many routes in the canyon that are better. Oct 18, 2005
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12c
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12c
...As for the grade, I would still have to disagree. I found two demanding moves towards the top (getting to the jug, and pulling past it). And these, though different than the type required for Bullet, were not as hard in my opinion. I certainly don't think it merits 13, and I certainly don't think the moves can be compared to Colors (which is considerably more difficult). All in all, a really fun, crimpy, and sustained route. Jun 25, 2005
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12c
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12c
This didn't seem nearly as hard as Bullet The Blue Sky. The last couple moves to pull over the lip (up left to a very poor crimp, followed by a very poor slopey mono) were the crux for me. Definitely easier than Colors. May 30, 2005