Sport, 40 ft,
Avg: 3.3 from 3
FA: Gus Glitch (aka Scotty Greenway)
> San Luis Valley
> Penitente Canyon
> Penitente - Entrance…
As you enter the canyon, this route is located just around the corner from the first routes you will encounter (mysterious redhead, et al). It encompasses just about the most beautiful 25 feet of rock you have ever seen. It is the clean orange face with an arete on the right side, formed by a chimney. About 20 feet right of "Color of Emotion
In his guidebook, Bob D. eclectically describes the opening moves as a "B2 boulder problem". I don't know what that meant back in the day, but these days B2 would be upwards of V12 or so don't you think? ...based on the original definition formulated by Mr. Gill. In more static terms, I would guess it is around V7 or so.
Anyway, some extremely thin moves on very small pockets get you up to and past the first bolt. I imagine the perceived difficulty will vary with height and the size of your fingertips...and how well you can cram them into tiny pockets. A fun long moves gets you to a good pocket and the 2nd bolt, then relatively easier climbing (11+?) leads to the top.
I didn't really use the arete at all...I tried it, but I found it easier to stick to the face. The Bob D book calls this 13b, the Stewart Green Book says 13a. Who knows? It is likely similar to many routes from this time period which were not frequently repeated, and so no true consensus was ever reached. It is short, so expect the intensity of the moves to make up for it. If you don't mind pissed-off boulder problems, I think this is an awesome route.
3 bolts and one cold shut for lowering.