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Routes in Lower Security Risk

Agony and Ecstasy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Central Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ecstasy of the People S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eldo of the People S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Enema of the People S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enemy of the People T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maximum Security T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men Are From Mars T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prism T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scraping By T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Risk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Erickson, solo
Page Views: 125 total, 1/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Apr 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route climbs a large, left-facing dihedral at the upper end of Lower Security Risk, about 100 feet north of Security Risk and about 30 feet north of the prominent dihedral that is The Prism.A bolted sport route, Eldo Of The People, climbs burly overhangs just to the right of this route.Begin at a large block separated from the main wall by about three inches. Place one or two large cams in that fracture and hand traverse right.Stand up when you can reach an undercling with your left hand. Use that to get a bomber hand jam with your right.This is a fairly strenuous stance with the gear at your feet so a ground fall might be possible if you blow the next placement (#1 Camalot locks in nicely) but once you make it, the next move around the corner gets you to easy ground immediately.The rest of the dihedral looked pointless so I cut right at a crack in the arete to join the aforementioned sport route for a couple of bolts and climbed to the anchor on The Prism. Otherwise the route is not much more than a boulder problem.Rossiter's topo rates the first crux and the moves past the bolts both at 10a, which seemed about right.

Protection

Two cams three inches or larger, one hand sized cam (#1 or #2 Camalot) one or two smaller cams and two draws for recommended variation.
I stayed in the dihedral and found it quite interesting. There's another small roof that isn't trivial. It's easy to top it out then downclimb to the bolts on The Prism if you'd rather lower off. Jun 10, 2015
Cutting right to the bolted arête after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route. Apr 15, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
The interesting moves on this one don't last long, but they are fun. I found a #2 Camalot best to protect the crux move to the left after standing up on the block. A #1 seemed a bit small. Jul 14, 2011