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Routes in Lens Rock

Ain't My Gull To Whack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Arch Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flakes of Glass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Frame, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optic Nerve T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Spectacle, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tennis Shoe Tango T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: C. Salaun
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate A on Apr 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Approach this route from the Bookend trail by walking past the Bookend then up the gully between it and Lens Rock, some scrambling encountered. The Frame is the prominent wide crack on the upper east face of Lens Rock. Grunt through a few offwidth moves on the lower half i.e. chicken wings/arm bars, then utilize face holds to stay out of the crack as the angle eases. Belay from bolts on top, a few feet left of the crack. Descend to the north then east dropping down easy slabs.

Protection

Camalots #2 to #5.

Photos

Fun offwidth! Although the approach is a pain for one good pitch. Not much else there except a 12 bolted line and a 9vs route. I used a #1, #0.75, #3, #5 Friend (#4.5 BD cam) and a #6 cam. I walked the #6 quite a ways with me. You can use 2 #6 cams if insecure. Really good for practicing heel toe and chicken wings. Does not get done much traffic due to all the plant life in the cracks. Aug 30, 2010
John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
John Maurer   Denver, CO
 
This route is quite clean and very good. Watch out for a spot of poison ivy after the small fern patch in the crack at the beginning. If you are on the Lens, don't miss this one. Jun 7, 2008