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Routes in Lower Security Risk

Agony and Ecstasy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Central Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ecstasy of the People S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eldo of the People S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Enema of the People S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enemy of the People T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maximum Security T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men Are From Mars T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prism T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scraping By T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Risk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Alan Bradley
Page Views: 1,111 total, 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 15, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
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Description

Lower Security Risk is the lower of the three Security Risk Buttresses. The route Prism is located on the same buttress as the climb Security Risk for which the crag is named. At the far north of the Security Risk buttress are located two big, left-facing dihedrals. The furthest north located dihedral is the route Scraping By, 10a. The arete just south of the dihedral is home to the 12 a/b route, Eldo Of The People. Prism climbs the big, left-facing dihedral just south of and right of Scraping By.

The route begins off some large blocks at the very base of the dihedral. Climbing starts through a short section of large hanging blocks before entering the dihedral proper. The rock quality through this initial section is less than solid. Do not get discouraged as the rock quality improves quickly. Meduim-sized stoppers and cams can be placed here though placement is from an awkward stance. From this point upward on good rock, jam and stem up the remainder of the dihedral. Traverse left under the large roof and finish by turning the corner at the end on the very edge ofthe arete, above the routes Scraping By and Eldo of the People. A two bolt anchor will be found just above the end of the traverse.

Rappel or continue on easy ground to the top. These anchors provide for easy top roping of the nearby routes.

Protection

Protection is good. 1 set of medium size stoppers and and cams up to 4 inch. For additional protection take one extra 3 inch cam.Two bolt anchor, 60 m single rope rappel.
Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route. Apr 15, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The bottom of the route looks grungy, but I'd say the rock is solid and takes pretty good gear. I used Aliens at the bottom and bomber large cams at the top and got in a couple of nuts. I think 5.9 is a good rating, and I thought the pro was good. This route and Security Risk combine for a nice morning of trad, though one shouldn't leave without getting on at least one of the stellar sport routes. Aug 17, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I don't think this is a sandbag for 5.9. Every hard move has a great rest following it. Big hexes work great to supplement cams on this one. Jul 14, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Pretty fun if you can get through the loose stuff at the bottom. Big stems avoid most of the rotten rock.... Then a nice crack and better rock all the way to the anchor.
Easy for old school 8+ but hard for a bolted 10. I guess the consensus is 5.9.... Jul 13, 2011
Definitely a sandbag at 5.9 and very scary, hanging blocks to start. Jan 13, 2010