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Routes in Rear-End Rock

Crack Crack V3+ 6A+
Golum's Delight V4 6B
South Bulge V5 6C
Tongue in Cheek V9 7C
West Wall V0 4
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 642 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andy Mann on Mar 29, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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I don't know enough about the history of this problem to say exactly how it is to be done. But left of the crack is a good right hand edge and a left hand undercling. If you can pull on from these, throw to the good downsloping 10 finger edge at about 8 feet. Then without using the crack, muckle or mantle over. If starting this way is breaking your heart, use the right hold and give the ol' heave ho from the ground to gain the 8 foot edge with your left hand and go from there, it will probably offer you a more equal challenge for the grade.


Perfect landing under a small venture, but a pad is nice.


Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Nice job Andy. This problem is actually called Left Bulge. It was originally done via a cheatstone in 1967 by Pat Ament. It appears it was repeated that way until CG and Harrison Dekker added the low start in the early to mid 1980s. Benningfield mentions the low start to the problem as if that is the problem. Not at V5 it's not.

Three versions (grades are just estimates - form your own opinions!):
High-start from lip (cheatstone or jump) ... V4/5
Regular-start with LH undercling and RH crimp ... V6/7
Low-start (very tricky, funky and powerful) on double undercling ... V? (Marcelo Montalva did this/repeated this in early 2006)

A short, but fun and challenging little problem. It's almost always fun to go where Ament and Gill did.

Peace out. Apr 13, 2005
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The low start seems very hard. V9 or so. The Benningfield guide is full of similar descriptions and looking back was clearly written for a small crew of insiders. How times have changed.... May 4, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Finally linked the low start--seems solid for V9 with many tries. The real crux wound up being the reach to the lip, a move I blew half a dozen times at least. May 18, 2008

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