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Left Bulge

V5, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Rear-End Rock

Description


Jump or cheat stone / pad start with right hand on the good crimp and left hand at the the lip.   Then without using the crack, muckle or mantle over. 

Protection

Perfect landing under a small venture, but a pad is nice.

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South Bulge
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Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice job Andy. This problem is actually called Left Bulge. It was originally done via a cheatstone in 1967 by Pat Ament. It appears it was repeated that way until CG and Harrison Dekker added the low start in the early to mid 1980s. Benningfield mentions the low start to the problem as if that is the problem. Not at V5 it's not.

Three versions (grades are just estimates - form your own opinions!):
High-start from lip (cheatstone or jump) ... V4/5
Regular-start with LH undercling and RH crimp ... V6/7
Low-start (very tricky, funky and powerful) on double undercling ... V? (Marcelo Montalva did this/repeated this in early 2006)

A short, but fun and challenging little problem. It's almost always fun to go where Ament and Gill did.

Peace out. Apr 13, 2005
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] The low start seems very hard. V9 or so. The Benningfield guide is full of similar descriptions and looking back was clearly written for a small crew of insiders. How times have changed.... May 4, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] Finally linked the low start--seems solid for V9 with many tries. The real crux wound up being the reach to the lip, a move I blew half a dozen times at least. May 18, 2008