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Hideaway Chimney

5.5, Trad,  Avg: 3.5 from 69 votes
FA: Mike Dewey, Bob Toryton, Bob Askmit, 1964
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Holy Saturday
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Description

About a third of the way into the crag (from the right) is this large and distinctive crack. From the ground, it looks like it has an offwidth crux, but in reality the crack opens up inside to allow the passage of all but the most oversized. Juggy, but with good jams too.

Protection

Single set of cams, 3/4" to 3".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

N. Edwards emerging into the light from the darkness near the top of Hideaway Chimney. The Turtle Rock Trail can be seen in the upper left background.
[Hide Photo] N. Edwards emerging into the light from the darkness near the top of Hideaway Chimney. The Turtle Rock Trail can be seen in the upper left background.
Brittany rocking the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Brittany rocking the chimney.
Russell (7 yr old) in the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Russell (7 yr old) in the chimney.
A closer view of this fun chimney.
[Hide Photo] A closer view of this fun chimney.
View of the chimney looking NW.
[Hide Photo] View of the chimney looking NW.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Protects very well, appearances notwithstanding. Once you get up inside the chimney itself, there are several crack systems to choose from. A little bit of everything for pro. At the top, go right and rap off the anchors for the route FLAKE. Jun 6, 2005
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Did this route for the first time today. FANTASTIC. Looks intimidating from the ground but has a ton of good pro once you get higher in the chimney...you can place just about anything but a #4 Camalot was definitely helpful. I climbed right side in for the first half, then it really doesn't matter. Sep 11, 2005
JayJurkowitsch
Laramie,WY
[Hide Comment] The name for the formation came from Prof. John Walker in the 60's; he took his Preacher climbing after services and upon looking down his first rappell - an overhanging one no less- the man of god uttered ; "Holy Sh*t - I mean Saturday!!" Mar 26, 2007
Happy Gilmore
CO
 
[Hide Comment] This really is a great route no matter how cool you are, er...I mean, how hard you climb. Mar 9, 2008
Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I'm told that some people consider this a 5.7, and if you're leading, with the rack getting in the way, it may feel that way. However, seconding or soloing makes it much easier, and also moves the crux to the top. Apr 5, 2011
jake marlow
laramie
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb, AND it is the easiest way to get to the awesome rap down! Feb 24, 2012
Bailey Moore
Sierras
  5.4
[Hide Comment] On my most recent ascent a large rat was spotted in the chimney along with a lot of piss, gross. Nov 10, 2020