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Routes in Westbay Wall

Billy's Ghost Dance S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jason's Bicep S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nose in a Day S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green
Page Views: 2,617 total, 17/month
Shared By: Livia on Mar 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is the second route on this wall but the first easily seen from the path. The first route (currently a project, 5.13+) is behind some trees around the north corner of the wall. From photo, Billy's Ghost Dance is the left of the two routes.

This route shares the first two bolts straight up jugs with Nose in a Day (5.7) and then veers left to more delicate slab climbing. From the top of the route, Pike's Peak looms over the Whale's Tail Wall on the other side of the canyon.

As mentioned in the guidebook, there is a great deal of loose rock laying around at the top of these two 100 foot climbs.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
 
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
 
Use a sling on the second bolt to reduce both rope drag and further rock damage. Nov 12, 2016
I removed the Fixe ring anchors from Billy's Ghost Dance a week ago and added new bolt hangers with quicklinks. So many people had been top-roping through the rings that the stainless steel was worn down at least 25%. Don't top-rope through the quicklinks on the route. It's always best to use your own gear, so you can create an equalized top-rope anchor, which puts less stress on the bolts. The cost of replacing the Fixe ring anchors with new ones is almost $30. To find out more about why you shouldn't top-rope directly through bolt anchors and how to rig a top-rope on bolts, read my article at About.com climbing.about.com/od/topro…. Apr 29, 2010
This route is cleaning up, so in the newest guide printing, I've dropped the route rating to 5.5.... May 24, 2005