Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Unbound

5.11+, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 1.6 from 14 votes
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

The route is located about 10-15 left of the Children of a Lesser Grade slab.

Boulder up to the first bolt. Make several hard moves up a thin-technical seam to a ledge. Crank up the ramp and face above to a two-bolt anchor.

There was a bolting ban in the canyon that lasted for several years that when from the start of the canyon to the Virgin Wall.

This route is not in that area. Great addition to the area.

Per Jason Young: this is a challenging route that is steep, thin, and a bit crumbly.

It is divided into three sections starting with a crack feature off of the ground that continues up to the first ledge (crux section). The crack is not used as much as one would think (I used mostly thin face holds to the left of the crack). The route continues past this ledge to a tricky bulge that is surmounted on thin holds to another ledge feature (second section) and easier climbing on the final headwall to the anchors.

It is probably worth doing if you have done most of the other routes here of this grade.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions merged onto the 1st submission page to reduce confusion and duplication.

Location

Per Jason Young: this route is located immediately to the right of "Jack and Diane" just before the break in the cliff that is left of "Jewel of the Mild".

Protection

Five clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor. Stick-clip or boulder up to the first bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jack and Diane to Jewel of the Mild.
[Hide Photo] Jack and Diane to Jewel of the Mild.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] I tried this route the other day as a warmup because it gets early sun, not knowing what it was. It's much harder than it looks!

The top anchor currently consists of two bolts w/hangers and a single quick link on each hanger. If someone could add a single chain link or ring to each bolt, it would make for a lot cleaner descent, w/o rope twistage. Or just rap off one bolt. Dec 13, 2005
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] If I ever go up it again, I'll bring some links. I've decided that I should just bring extra links and chain to Penitente from now on anyway. Especially since I like to try the obscure routes...it's probably a good idea for everyone else too. Dec 16, 2005
AndyMac
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] It would be worth 1 star if it had 1 more bolt up top. Don't fall near the anchor or you'll crater into the ledge. The bottom was fine and a nice, little challenge. May 18, 2017
CNorman
Los Lunas/Albuquerque, NM
 
[Hide Comment] I actually really enjoyed the bottom half of this route. The top half is a little iffy. Definitely wouldn't be fun to pop off between the last bolt and the anchors. Jul 27, 2017